Muscatine Kosovo Project

Welcome Back Bujeta and Erza!

2005-09-11T20:09:00.000-06:00

Bujeta Vokshi and Erza Vesa, two of Liz's volunteers who visited Muscatine in 2004, returned to Muscatine September 11, 2005. They are here as Rotary Scholars and will attend Muscatine High School!

Members of the Muscatine Kosovo Project held a surprise welcome party for Bujeta and Erza at Ric and Cynthia Smith's house just hours after the two arrived in Muscatine. Several photos from the party are posted in separate messages below.

Photos from Erza and Bujeta's Welcome Party

2005-09-11T20:02:00.000-06:00

Special thanks to Deb Porter and Eugene Johnston for taking most of these photos.

More Photos from Erza and Bujeta Welcome Party

2005-09-11T19:50:00.000-06:00

Panorama View of Gjakove by Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti

2005-09-01T19:52:00.000-06:00

Jon drew this composition on six separate sheets of paper on August 7-August 31, 2005. I have scanned each of the pieces and combined them into one complete picture.

Post-trip Thoughts from Neva Baker

2005-08-31T19:29:00.000-06:00

I have been asked a number of times, “Was it what you expected?” Well, like most experiences, yes and no. I am not a world traveler like Keith and Kristin, or Anne Olson or Doreen Borde. My experience with Europe was 20 and 22 years ago, but I stayed and traveled and studied and lived there for nine weeks each time, and I found that even after so many years, I could understand much of the cultural context – for example, the housing styles didn’t seem so exotic to me as they did to some of the others in our group, especially the kids. We had been warned that it was a third world country, but I still expected Europe, just a poor Europe, and I found that I was mostly right. I had read and studied the books about the ethnic cleansing by Slobodon Milosovec, and I expected more evidence of the ravages of war and violence. Instead I saw many new buildings, and contented cows wandering across the road.

I did not expect the evidence of freedom – a very open and personal freedom of the individuals we meant. Kids played in the streets or wandered around the town wherever they wanted and were safe and happy. Men and women did their shopping, visited with friends, and strolled the “boulevard” on Sunday night until the wee hours, admiring their friends’ best clothing and visiting the café’s and boutiques. I know that some of this is a reaction from the fear and imprisonment in their own houses during Milosevec’s reign of terror. I know that many women are not free as we American women expect to be free. I know that some of the families we worked with – even in Liz’s group of volunteers – came from what we would call dysfunctional homes, and some had experienced abuse and violence from family members. I know also, that part of the freedom from tension and violence in Gjakova is due to the lack of any significant ethnic minority presence. And yet, in spite of this, we also experienced the exhilaration of a sense of safety and freedom we don’t usually know. Several of us have remarked on seeing our fairly young children waving to us from a cab, and having no idea where they were coming from, where they were going to, or who they were with – but we laughed and smiled and waved back, and waited to be told about their adventures later, because we felt confident that they were among friends and were perfectly safe. Our kids enjoyed this sense of freedom as well, and we parents have had to remind our kids that once we come back home, they need to resume asking permission to go out, to obey curfew, and to follow all the safety rules necessary in our American society.

I did not expect to be treated like a hero or visiting royalty. In France, or even Germany, if you walk into a store and point to something and speak English, or maybe a word or two of French or German, you may be treated contemptuously. Here, if you walked into a store, pointed to something and held up one or two fingers to indicate quantity, and said even one word of Albanian along with English, everyone rushed to help you. Friends and neighbors who could speak some English would quickly come to the aid of the shopkeepers. Helpful store clerks would punch the price into a calculator and hold it up for you to see the number, since English and Albanian use very different words for numbers, and understanding was difficult if you had to count higher than “3”. Anyone who could speak any English at all would greet us and ask if we were Americans, and beam with pleasure that we had graced their shop. It is not unusual to see Bill Clinton’s picture in a place of prominence in public buildings, since he was the U.S. President who authorized the NATO bombing, and will long be deemed the hero and savior of the Albanian people in Kosova.

I did not expect the juxtaposition of lovely homes and prized possessions kept scrupulously clean, with trash everywhere to be seen in the public places. I did not expect the level of pollution from the open burning of garbage in the middle of the city. I never expected to see “free range” chickens and cows walking openly everywhere in the city. I was startled by seeing horse drawn carts, side by side with late model Mercedes cars and vans, side by side with tractors and bicycles on the same bumpy, pothole filled city streets.

I have also been asked “Why did you go?’ “Did you do any good?” “Was it worth it?” “Did you accomplish what you meant to do?” “Where you able to help people?”, or variations on these themes. These are questions some of us adults asked ourselves while we were there. Most of us went with a real desire to help people. These were people we had some connection to, families of kids we had met and hosted in our own homes, and we knew they had been through a bad time. When we arrived, we did not expect how happy and well adjusted most of these families were. They were showing us their highest level of hospitality, we did not see their needs. We did see the needs in the displaced persons camps, and in the Roma camp, but most places, we went only once. In the Slovene Village camp, we went three times. The first time, everyone was thrilled to see us and the kids were well behaved. We were a novelty and special. The second time, it was more relaxed, but the kids were still fairly well behaved. The evening singing and dancing party was a real highlight. Yet by our third daytime trip, we were no longer a novelty, the kids behaved horribly, and it was clear, to me at least, that we would have to stay in the long term, and develop a complementary program to Liz’s music program, to have any lasting effect.

Some of us adults on the trip expected this to be primarily a working trip, and we felt guilty when the activities were mostly social, or worse, we felt useless when our skills were not needed, and we were not able to help anyone else. Then of course, there is the Midwestern work ethic which compels some of us over extended types to expect to be busy every minute of the day. When I was young, my father used to come home from work and ask us “What have you done to justify your existence today?” Reading a book or visiting with friends was never an acceptable answer. So standing around for an hour and a half waiting for the group to gather to go to the next outing creates tension for some of us beyond what is explainable by our usual need to punch a time clock or record our billable hours.

So – was it worth it? Did we do any good? The longer I am back in the U.S. and back at work, the more emphatically I believe the answer is Yes – absolutely. Ric Smith is fond of saying that they give us more than we give them. At some point I have stopped seeing that as a feel-good saying, and have begun to appreciate its truth. Did we do them any good? Yes. Maybe not due to our own special skills, which they may or may not have needed, but by our very presence. We are Americans, and they are ethnic Albanians in a poor, often forgotten portion of the world, and we cared about them and their needs, and we like them very much as people. Our friendship, our concern, and our presence meant more than any one of us can probably ever appreciate. They understand that none of us, individually, are rich, but we all worked hard to find the resources to visit their homeland. They view us with hope, that we can help them where they need it the most, in providing opportunities for education for their youth.

As for what they did for us, is there anyone who has ever traveled to another country and not come back with a better understanding and appreciation of America? Is there really any greater satisfaction than forming a long term personal relationship with a person or group of people in another country? It was a terrific reminder that the most important thing in life is our relationship with our family and friends; that home is important because it provides all important shelter and serves as an expression of family, beauty and pride. The friendships we formed with the Albanian kids and their families are worth more than any number of English lessons, eye exams or even musical performances. Priceless.

I hope this is not too long. It really is hard to be brief once I get going, and to cull even 18 pictures out of 452 is tough. Every time I go through them, I have to relive the experiences. (NOTE...Photos are in separate message below)

Photos from Niva Baker

2005-08-31T19:06:00.000-06:00

Diana in the marketplace in Peje

My favorite scene from Rugova Canyon

“White legs and decorated cast contest”

An old roof in Gjakova

Trash in the main stream running through Gjakova

The four main methods of transportation in Gjaokova

The evidence of war in central Gjaokova

A squatter living on an abandoned military installation in central Gjakova

A little boy in art class at Kolonije

The joy of art

My special friend from Kolonije. She kept pointing to my skin and repeating a word.

Doreen and friends at Kolonije

A scene from the Slovene Village

The floor of the women’s bathroom at Slovene Village (I won’t send the really gross one for public viewing)

The uplifting scenery from Slovene Village

The whole group rehearsing at the ZR school the day of the concert

The whole group warming up before the concert at the ZR School

Ali’s and Arlind’s mothers who hosted my two kids, saying good-bye to the whole group.

Short Movie from Liz

2005-08-29T21:35:00.000-06:00

Liz has sent a very short video (three seconds) of the kids in Slovene Village playing...or attempting to play...baseball. It was taken on August 11, 2005.

My husband has posted it to our personal Web site.

You can see the movie via: http://www.machlink.com/~ejohnston/baseball.MOV

NOTE...The movie is in QuickTime format. You will need to have QuickTime installed on your computer to watch the movie. To open, right click on the link above and then click "open" or "open in new window." Be patient, it may take time to download.

More photos from Anne Olson

2005-08-21T20:01:00.000-06:00

Note from Liz - Muscatine's Lasting Impressions

2005-08-20T20:06:00.000-06:00

Excerpts of an e-mail I received from Liz today and a few new photos from Kosovo:

I think you've all heard that you totally inspired our volunteers and they are going to try --for the first time ever in Kosovo, I think--fundraising to help with the funds for next summer. They are going to sell lemonade and bracelets at the outdoor market every Monday, if it's successful. We'll see. But I am extremely proud of them for taking this initiative--it was totally their idea.

They are making 2 styles. I'm also going to buy some Oreos at Bondsteel and they are going to try to sell them in small bags. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm sending a couple of pictures--one is the poster they made for the fundraising effort, and the other two are from the camp--playing baseball and wearing necklaces made from kits left here--all since you left, because you left us such wonderful things to do with them!

Take care--lots of love--Liz

Public Report and MRE Night

2005-08-20T09:37:00.000-06:00

On Friday, August 19, 2005, participants in the Muscatine Kosovo Project gathered at Wesley United Methodist Church for public report and performance for the community and for our "MRE Supper." Scores of people attende the public event which included choir performances, a DVD slide show from Anne Olson, a PowerPoint I prepared with the help of Keith Porter, and personal accounts from several participants.

Many thanks to everyone who attended!

Compilation Drawing by Muscatine Youth

2005-08-19T22:52:00.000-06:00

In a previous post, Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti mentions a "compilation" drawing made by Muscatine youth participants while in Kosovo. The compilation is actually six separate drawings that take the shape of a person when placed together. Joe Porter, Ben Rivera, Nick Korpi and Katie Korpi helped create this neat drawing.

Drawings from Kosovo

2005-08-18T21:01:00.000-06:00

Below are just a few of the more than 300 drawings Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti brought back from the art classes he organized in Kosovo. Jon's comments about all of the artwork are in separate messages below.

What do These Drawings Tell Me? By Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti

2005-08-18T20:57:00.000-06:00

“Draw whatever you want" is all I said but no one needed me to get them going in this direction.

The participants included children from the USA group, and Kosovar children in Liz Shropshire’s music program, and children of earliest elementary age through high school from one school “ZR” in Gjakove, Dujake Village School, a Roma school within Gjakove and Slovene Village.

The drawings became mixed up deliberately when and accident upon unloading finished this project “by chance” (Marcel Duchamp would understand). There were enough examples of strength from each place as to merit unity over separation. If I were to draw attention to any salient feature of difference it would involve Slovene Village, where the overall vision was narrower. These children had as much in them but many had been born there or lived much of their lives there. Their architectural images were plainer, less ornate, there were less objects in their images in general. At this camp the only destroyed images occurred when one little boy drew for most of 3-hours and finished by ripping his pictures (violent layers of dense crayon systems of mostly straight marks-non objective) into pieces and throwing them under the desks nearby. Looking at this kids’ world is consistent with living in a box where the public toilets are a hole in the ground flooded by a collapsing floor; where piles of garbage and excrement are the norm.

Outside of this singular example everyone else is telling a different story-thesis, hour after hour. Images of peaceful scenes, hope, suns, balloons, favorite animals, colorful rainbows, and picture frames were common themes. Bridges, swimming, boats, sailing, mountains (Gjakove is a valley surrounded by beautiful hills and mountains). Block-letter designs abound, usually with names or places, always showing pride and often ability. 3-dimensional rendering, recessional spaces, perspective images can be found in each classroom.

The children and adults from home who helped in the art class are mixed in with the Kosovar children. Some of these children, mostly musicians, could pursue visual arts as well. All were very willing and generous with their efforts to help and share and all set a great example by always working hard and using their imagination and creative abilities. The collaborative figure made by Ben, Nick, Katy and Joe is interesting and beautiful piece that seems to me to sum up and symbolize our trip in general. NO one told them what to do; they shaped this themselves with a powerful and imaginative result. Emma, Fitore, Ben, Shqiprim are all people who draw instinctively but others too numerous to list showed wonderful efforts. Nick and Sam both stepped into simple pencil and eraser images of great depth and imagination; Sam, using his unbroken arm, not the one he thought did all the drawing, produced and effort any art major in college could learn from. (What happens if one doesn’t try?) What one sees out of the corner eye may be more relevant than what is in front of one.

Other often-seen images contain hopeful homes, flowers, hearts, LOVE spelled out, basketball courts, symbols of things to stop, i.e.; smoking, pollution, trash, the dot-patterned hand symbolizing “stop hurting children” (done by a teen-age Kosovar girl) reminds me of one of the cultures who have used the hand as a symbol of signature, Melanesia, Aboriginal, Australian etc. among others.

A number of portraits stand out, Blendona, Ben, Blendiana, some unknown, Shqiprim to name a few. The pencil portrait of their hero Skenderbeg on horseback seen in profile stands out for the deftness of touch for a kid willing to draw what many would consider to be one of the most difficult and sophisticated of compositions, horse and rider.

In closing I can only say thanks again and again to Liz Shropshire and the kids in her program in Gjakove, Kosovo, and to the 31 other Americans in our group and all of the people who helped us realize this stage of this project.

I hope to use these drawings to spread the word visually as an accompaniment to the music these people are making to bring me peace to this world in any amount possible.

Sincerely,
Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti

Art Acknowledgements and Supply List

2005-08-18T20:48:00.000-06:00

Although each class was told to “keep your drawings” I returned from Kosovo with over 300 drawings on nine-and-a-quarter by 12-inch cotton stock purchased or donated from here in the US. A number of people helped with contributions of materials but two stand out; Craig, manager of an art-supply store in Iowa City, Iowa. His corporation declined to contribute as did all other corporations asked, but he personally donated over 1000 pencils, black and colored, and a thousand pieces of quality paper. My dear friends Hasan and Kyle offered “anything I needed” contribution due to weight limitations and space was of smaller size then they wanted. These kinds of people make this project always possible as all of us found out raising funds in general for this trip.

My daughter and I carried approximately 120 pounds of art supplies in two HUGE suitcases and two backpacks. These materials included:

Liquid and tempera paint (several gallons)
Approximately 150 brushes
Sidewalk chalk (approximately 50 pieces)
Permanent markers (2 dozen)
100 rubber erasers
400 colored pencils
Over 1000 black pencils
30 pencil sharpeners
300 crayons
Approximately 3500 sheets of paper including over 100ft by 24-inch rolled index papers.

It took the combined efforts of 32 people to carry this paper, with people like this, great things are always possible. Thank-you with all my heart.

Additional Thoughts from Anne Olson

2005-08-18T18:10:00.000-06:00

It seems appropriate to share a few thoughts about the Muscatine youth who traveled to Kosovo.

Muscatine kids have things pretty good. They probably live in air-conditioned homes and are carted to air-conditioned schools in air-conditioned cars and may even have a room of their own at home.

The Muscatine Children's Choir youth who traveled to a foreign country in which the language was unfamiliar, spent two weeks in the homes of Albanian families they didn't know.

By and large, these kids did not complain about the conditions they found themselves in. They did not complain when two adults and two youth were crammed into a hotel room in London with sleeping accommodations for only three. They did not complain about the terrific heat in Kosovo, even when riding on the floor in the back of a 15-passenger van in which the only ventilation came through the driver's and front passenger's windows. They did not complain about being unable to sleep in a house where windows were closed off from any little breeze or overnight cooling that might take place. They did not complain about having to share a room and perhaps sleep on the floor of a home in Kosovo. There was no complaint about having to walk many blocks in Gjakove to and from their Kosovar homes. They made it a point to be on time each day for activities and outings.

The concert at Camp Bondsteel touched the hearts of all us Muscatinites. We knew the men and women serving our country were present for a little respite from the heat and their duties. Our youth sang as they've never sung before for these folks.

These young people should be commended for the way they conducted themselves on this trip. No "Ugly Americans" here, only our Muscatine youth acting in a very appropriate manner. I am proud of them, as all Muscatine should be.

Final Thoughts on Kosovo Trip by Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti

2005-08-17T20:15:00.000-06:00

When Ric Smith first offered up this trip to me some three years ago-I said, “when are we leaving?” To me as an actual artist Kosovo is no different than any other place on Earth in the sense that there is Art. Yes the people will be new to me, their experiences collectively much more harsh in their suffering than my own. But I was sure that they know as much or more about art than I. If their children can be given an opportunity (a window that we Americans increasingly take for granted); a chance to create from within themselves without being used or exploited, then maybe there is a chance to grow and heal, to grow.

The concept of Liz’s was so simple, of course it works. Give children a few simple instruments and their own voices and the power of music emerges. I saw and heard and knew all my ideas about art were close to this. As a musician I cannot conceive of a world without music more than one without art.

I have now tested these ideas in our elementary schools and individually with people ages 3 to 83. Give children some simple tools; crayons, paper, pencils, markers and the assignment “draw whatever you want.” The results in Kosovo are NO different than Muscatine, Iowa City or Chicago (places I have lived in). An incredible array of visions, dreams, ideas, stories all emerge. The kids took the lead-they show me- keep it simple and out of this-the universe is the only limit. By refusing to be more specific in my guidance-no subject steering-no hot “topics” like war or suffering or loss, I leave it to them to show me their world.

What Results!! Like here at home, I can only say that Picasso spent his entire life trying to be a child in art. No one in our lives came closer, except children everywhere.

Having said this about what the children tell us through drawings, I must add that when one gets the chance to work with others in a united effort to share, there are even greater results. I could have done little without the constant help of everyone in our group and Liz’s program. Think about what happens if Liz takes a vacation (like she was planning) to Austria instead of the path she chose? What happens if Kristin and Keith don’t do what they do looking for a “positive story in a war-torn region” etc? What happens if Ric isn’t looking for more than the “music tours” etc? What happens if all of us adults are not moved by the children who came to visit us? What will be the result if we do not love?

I thought I was going to Kosovo to help others, instead it is I who have received far more than I think I could ever give. As Liz said, “one can never give too much, only too little.” With the exception of my family back at home I have never been with a group of individuals like this in my fortunate life. These people in our group are the most loving, caring people I could ever imagine and their hard-working ethic would have made our ancestors proud.

In Slovene Village refugee camp the classroom was a rat-crap infested, urine-filled space, rarely used windows were nailed shut. Yet these kids from Liz’s and ours filled that air with music that coursed through me and I’m sure everyone else drawing in that space. In every room that we drew, the sounds of music were inside us. So every piece made by these incredible people must be seen as an image with the sounds of them inside. I feel very small and incredibly lucky to have been invited to participate with these fabulous people. I owe everything to all of us. Thanks.

Love,
Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti

Favorite Photos from Ric Smith

2005-08-16T07:43:00.000-06:00

Bondsteel Performance Mentioned in Armed Forces Information Services News Article

2005-08-16T07:39:00.000-06:00

Don't doubt for a second that our trip had an impact. The Department of Defense sent out this press release today. It is a very good story....but I was shocked when I saw our choir mentioned near then end. (Keith Porter)

Kosovo Mission Successful, Important, U.S. Forces Say
By Terri Lukach
American Forces Press Service

http://www.defenselink.mil/news/Aug2005/20050815_2448.html

Post-trip Reactions from Michaella Calzaretta

2005-08-12T17:24:00.000-06:00

"I've heard it said, that people come into our lives for a reason, bringing something we must learn. And we are led to those who help us most to grow, if we let them and we help them in return. Well, I don't know if I believe that's true. But I know I'm who I am today, because I knew you.

Like a comet pulled from orbit, as if passes a sun. Like a stream that meets a boulder, halfway through the wood. Who can say if I've been changed for the better, but, because I knew you, I have been changed for good.

It well may be that we will never meet again, in this lifetime. So, let me say before we part...so much of me is made of what I learned from you. You'll be with me, like a handprint on my heart. And now, whatever way our stories end, I know you have rewritten mine, by being my friend.

Like a ship blown from it's mooring, by a wind off the sea. Like a seed dropped by a sky bird, in a distant wood. Who can say if I've been changed for the better, but, because I knew you, I have been changed for good."
-- WICKED (the musical)

At the beginning of this trip, I didn't really think that I would get much out of it, mainly because I wasn't here to participate last summer. But as soon as I met those kids and adults, I immediately changed my mind. Those 2 weeks were the happiest and the best 2 weeks of my entire life and I will never forget what those children taught me. "Carpe Diem!" Sieze the Day!! Just because you may live in a war-torn country with a government that won't cooperate with anything or anybody doesn't mean that your life is wasted. No matter where they lived, those young Kosovars live their lives to the fullest and never worry about the future, for them or their country. And I think that we, as Americans, should take a lesson in that.

Muscatine Journal Editorial Mentions Kosovo Project

2005-08-12T12:39:00.000-06:00

The August 11, 2005 edition of the Muscatine Journal included an editorial that mentions our project and quotes Ric Smith.

You can read it via the following link:
http://muscatinejournal.com/articles/2005/08/11/opinion/editorials/
doc42fb7379befbe051991677.txt

Author's Note - New Updates and Info on Page Load Times

2005-08-11T21:50:00.000-06:00

I tried really hard to keep as current as possible while I was in Kosovo but at times it was hard given the schedule and the internet situation. One of the main items that never made it to the blog was info about the ZR evening concert.

I've just posted photos from that event. But in an effort to keep this blog in as close to actual date order as possible, I have post-dated the ZR concert update for August 6th. So to see the new pictures you will need to scroll down the page.

If I find more time to work on older sections of the blog I will continue to add or update material so keep checking back for new and updated material. And...keep sending your thoughts and/or pictures. This blog is far from over.

Finally...since this blog has tons of photos, it is starting to load much more slowly than before. So don't panic if all of the photos don't show up right away. It may take a few minutes for the entire blog to show up when you visit it.

Reaction and Photos from Camp Bondsteel

2005-08-11T19:36:00.000-06:00

The Muscatine and Kosovar choirs performed at Camp Bondsteel on August 6th. Our host for the afternoon was SFC Duff McFadden, a Wilton High School graduate. He sent Keith Porter a brief note today and some photos.

"Thanks for a wonderful concert. I've heard nothing but high praise from the command group and all who attended the concert. Again, thanks for a great show and a great time with the kids." -SFC Duff McFadden, Public Affairs Office, Camp Bondsteel

Post-trip Reactions from Karen Morgan

2005-08-11T14:47:00.000-06:00

I enjoyed helping in Kosovo. It was like stepping back in time and remembering America of the older days. People out walking and talking to others. Kids gathering in corner lots playing made up games instead of being controlled in a sport.

The children of the camps were among my favorites. They would run to meet us and all of them were so cute and friendly. The conditions they had to live in were appalling, but they were so happy to see us and had the biggest smiles. I could have packed them all up and brought them back with us.

I am ready to go back anytime to help in anyway.

Post-trip Comment from Madeline Hartman

2005-08-11T14:35:00.000-06:00

I think it was great, because it was a great experience.

I`d love to do it again to see all my friends again.

Post-trip Thoughts from Doreen Borde

2005-08-11T06:33:00.000-06:00

I echo Ric and Kristin with what a great group of kids and adults we had to travel with. Not only did I make friends with many of the Kosovars, I also made new friends among my fellow Americans. This was a wonderful experience for Taylor and I and hope for this to be the start of many more such experiences. Music is Peace and may we continue to spread the word!!

Note to All Readers - How to View Archived Posts

2005-08-10T21:17:00.000-06:00

Due to the size of this blog and the slow loading time (due to all of the photos), all postings are being archived by week.

This means 7 days worth of posts are displayed on the main page if you scroll to the bottom of the entire main page.

In order to read the posts from previous weeks, you need to go to the "Archives" section. The Archive links are located on the right hand side of the page under the green "About Me" box that includes my photo, biography information, links, and previous post listing for the past 7 days.

Reactions from Kosovar Youth

2005-08-10T20:52:00.000-06:00

During our last full day in Kosovo, Ric Smith was able to gather some written comments from several of the Shropshire Music Foundation's participants. I've transcribed the comments below.
"Thank you for coming. It has made our summer very special. You all were great. I look forward to meeting you again in Kosovo." (Reza)

"Thank you for everything; for your coming and I hope to see you again." (Blendiana)

"Thank you for all things." (Jeta)

"Thank you all for coming. You were so nice but these days go very fastly and I today, on the last day, we are so sad. Hope to see you again." (Kaltrina)

"These were the best days of the year for me." (Erza)

"Every day was very good with you guys. I love you so much and I am going to miss you." (Vlora)

"The best thing ever is that you came here. I love you guys." (Zana)

"I'm very glad I got to meet you guys. Thank you for everything." (Nita)

"Every day was really good and the reason for this is that you came here. I love you guys." (Gentiana)

Ric also asked some of our Kosovar friends to comment on the "best day" of the trip. Here are a few of their comments.

"The best day was Bondsteel because it was the end of the trip and we'd gotten to know each other better." (Arbnore)

"The best day was Bondsteel." (Burim)

"Performance at ZR School." (Arieta)

"The best day from all of the days was at Rugove. You are amazing." (Liridona)

"The best day was at Verbnitz restaurant." (Arlind)

"The best day was in the Verbnitz restaurant." (Blendona)

"The best day was in Verbnitz." (Taulant)

"I am going to remember Prizren." (Erza)

"The best day was at Bondsteel." (Sihana)

Post-trip Thoughts and Photos from Deb Porter

2005-08-10T20:32:00.000-06:00

Thanks to all who gave time and/or money toward the Muscatine Kosovo project! This was an awesome trip. Last year when the Kosovo children came here my life was forever changed. Children are the same across the world - regardless of the language they speak.

Beyond learning about and experiencing the children’s culture first hand, I’ve learned more about humanity in general. The teen Kosovar volunteers are amazing. They walk several miles each day to volunteer their time teaching peace through music. These volunteers have horror stories about the war and could easily be angry sulking teens. However, they find genuine happiness in using music to help others – even those children of ethnicities that were enemies during the war. That is a lesson we can all take advantage of: helping leads to healing.

Further, I am amazed by the adults and youth in our own group. The Muscatine kids were uninhibited in their willingness to interact with all the Kosovar volunteers and children. They held hands, sang songs, colored, cut, tied, knotted and enjoyed all the camp and program children – even those that were rambunctious and filthy. They really did mix so well that strangers would be unable to know which kids were from which country.

The adults were amazing also. They were able to find humor despite consecutive days without water for bathing, sleeping with crowing roosters seemingly on the windowsill, and having to follow instead of being the leaders for a change! The Korpis and Mike Hartman get an extra hurrah for smiling and being positive despite working extra long hours.

Thank you Dr. Smith for having such an insane idea of a music exchange with Kosovar folks and for talking my dreamer of a husband into joining your cause. We are all better for having the experience.

Again thanks to all involved, from the friendly store owners, helpful drivers and participants to those that donated to the cause: “teaching peace through music.” I believe it’s working!

Trip Impressions from Leigha Phillips

2005-08-10T16:59:00.000-06:00

I was sad to leave Gjakove, but I am glad I had the opportunity to go. The country was very beautiful and the people were the happiest people I know. I had a great time seeing the different cities that we visited. I was honored to sing at Bondsteel for our troops. The whole trip was an experience for all of us.

Keith Porter's Thoughts

2005-08-10T13:39:00.000-06:00

You may or may not know that Keith Porter is also the guide to Globalization Issues at About.com. You can see his site here. http://globalization.about.com/

Throughout the Kosovo trip, Keith posted a few short (mostly political) observations for his readers, and I thought you might like to see them as well. They are:

My Visit to Kosovo (7/28/05) http://globalization.about.com/b/a/189302.htm
Observations on Kosovo's Future (7/29/05) http://globalization.about.com/b/a/189793.htm
More From Kosovo (7/31/05) http://globalization.about.com/b/a/189998.htm
Kosovo's Minorities (8/3/05) http://globalization.about.com/b/a/190902.htm
Refugee for a Night (8/4/05) http://globalization.about.com/b/a/191244.htm
American Forces in Kosovo (8/7/05) http://globalization.about.com/b/a/191803.htm

Anne Olson's Impressions and Favorite Photos

2005-08-10T12:40:00.000-06:00

Anne's impressions (photos are below)

Shoes on the Doorstep
Smiles on the kids
Produce Stands on every corner
MAGNUM bars
The call of the Muezzin
Minarets
Bottled Water
Flashlights for walking at night
Electricity off periodically
No water for 24 hours
No paper in the potty
Heat. Heat. Heat
Horse-drawn carts next to a Mercedes
Music everywhere

Post-trip Thoughts from Dan Gray

2005-08-09T21:05:00.000-06:00

I have so many thoughts. We, the adults, started out not knowing each other very well even though we've spent the last several months trying to break the ice.

I've enjoyed all of you very much, and enjoyed our similarities as well as our differences. More similarities than differences.

I didn't know you when we started out, but I know now, that I will never forget you.

Falemnde'rit-shu'me!

Saying Goodbye is Never Easy

2005-08-09T19:01:00.000-06:00

As I packed the final items into my suitcase I found it hard to zip close; not because it was too full but because I didn’t want to believe our trip was coming to an end.

In our short time here, our group has managed to accomplish more than I ever thought possible. Pete and Kristi Korpi examined hundreds of sets of eyes; Mike Hartman provided health checks to just as many, and the various art, computer, English and photography classes led by Doreen Borde, Neva Baker, Jon Fasanelli-Calwalti, Karen Morgan, Anne Olson, and Cynthia Smith brought joy to young and old alike. Janet Barry, Deb Porter, and others kept us well fed and Keith Porter recorded nearly every minute of our experiences on tape.

More importantly, our youth were able to reunite with old friends and meet new ones. And under the leadership of Ric and Cynthia Smith, Lori Carroll and Liz Shropshire our youth and the Kosovar choir sang and performed more beautifully than ever.

“How do kids laugh and sing who’ve survived the atrocities of one of the dirtiest wars in modern history? How do our very protected kids connect with these young heroes and sing with the same glee? I don’t know, but laughing and singing with them has just become a central miracle in my life,” said Ric Smith on our final full day in Gjakove. He added, “Which kids are which? They’re all laughing and singing; building bridges instead of burning them.”

I knew this trip would be a great adventure, but I never could have predicted how life changing this would be for ALL of us.

We, the 32 Muscatine participants, have many people to thank: our families and friends; our Kosovar hosts; Liz Shropshire and the Shropshire Music Foundation; Jeff Tecklenburg and the Muscatine Journal for graciously allowing us to provide these updates; and most importantly the Muscatine residents and businesses that have so generously contributed financially.

We’ve created something very, very special. Our goal is to keep this program going. Hopefully two of the Kosovar teens who visited Muscatine in 2004 will return this fall as Rotary Scholars. And although I can’t speak for everyone, I know many of us on this trip would love to return (and do so with even more people from Muscatine).

Although these updates represent only a small slice of our entire trip, I hope you’ve gained new insight into the Muscatine-Kosovo Project over the past few weeks.

You can’t keep these kids from making music. Whether we’re driving down the road, at a picnic, or waiting for our next appointment someone is always singing, playing a pennywhistle or banging on a drum. And it was no different when both groups gathered at Liz’s house for the final time. Michaella Calzaretta, Emma Smith, and Lori Carroll performed selections from the musical Wicked, and one line in particular seemed to sum up the entire experience:

“I do believe I have changed for the better. Because I knew you, I have been changed for good.”

I could not have said it better myself.

Our Final Full Day In Kosovo

2005-08-07T15:46:00.000-06:00

Today is our final full day in Kosovo and so we are spending the day celebrating with our Kosovar friends and their families.

This evening we will all gather at Liz’s house for a final "goodbye" celebration. I believe the youth are planning a separate get together as well. But we kicked-off our final full day with a picnic at Gjakove’s reservoir (the large lake that supplies Gjakove’s water). At first the workers would not let us past the gates even though others had been able to pass through. But thanks to one of Liz’s volunteers, Kaltrina, we were finally allowed past the gate. Kaltrina’s father apparently works for the city and all it took was a few cell phone calls.

Once we were past the gate our vans drove us across the top of the narrow dam and into a parking area. We then unloaded all of the food and drinks we packed along for the trip and walked several hundred yards until we found just the right spot to camp out.

It was a wonderful afternoon. The weather was perfect…not too hot…not too cold.

Many of the youth jumped into the lake. Others built sandcastles or walked the muddy lake banks. Everyone snacked on the traditional Kosovar food that Liz’s volunteers brought. It was all fabulous…and very filling. I had hopes of losing weight on this trip but given all of the food we’ve been presented during this trip I doubt anyone lost weight (and a few probably gained!).

Near the end of the picnic Liz and the youth grabbed their instruments and entertained the rest of us with impromptu versions of many of the songs the youth have been rehearsing for the past several days. Lori Carroll and Deb Porter even assisted (Lori on the bucket drum and Deb on pennywhistle).

It was a perfect way to end a truly spectacular trip.

I’ve posted pictures from the picnic below.

Photos from Goodbye Picnic

2005-08-07T15:39:00.000-06:00

Our Own USO Mission

2005-08-07T04:32:00.000-06:00

Nestled among the rolling hills one hour south of Pristina is Camp Bondsteel. This sprawling base is home to the Multinational Brigade (East) of Operation Joint Guardian; the NATO peacekeeping operation in Kosovo. It is also the base for the thousands of American troops contributing to keeping the peace in this troubled region.

On Saturday we packed 33 Americans (including Liz Shropshire) and 32 of Liz’s Gjakove students into five vans and headed to Camp Bondsteel. Our mission was to extend our thanks for their efforts. The trip, which wasn’t confirmed until after we arrived in Kosovo, was made possible only after a series of e-mail exchanges initiated by Keith Porter.

We arrived just after noon, and it took more than an hour to get all of us through security. This is partially due to the size of our group and the fact that Bondsteel doesn’t have X-ray machines and every bag had to be hand inspected. Once we cleared security we were given visitors badges and introduced to our host, SFC Duff McFadden. McFadden, a member of the Iowa National Guard, has been serving in Kosovo since last December.

Unbeknownst to Keith, McFadden is a Wilton High School graduate. McFadden, a media relations specialist, also worked briefly for the Muscatine Journal while attending Muscatine Community College in the mid 1970’s and again in the mid 1980’s.

“I worked with Roger Bates covering sports,” he told me as he reminisced about Iowa.

When I asked SFC McFadden why he helped organize our group trip he simply said, “We figured it would be a good thing to have,” adding, “We love to have entertainment. It helps pass the time.”

Our tour of Camp Bondsteel began with a full buffet meal in one of the base’s two dining halls. It felt like home for our American participants. Saturday’s NFL pre-season game in Tokyo was being broadcast on a large screen in one end of the dining hall.

After a delicious lunch we boarded Blue Bird busses from Iowa (complete with a number of armed escorts) and taken to the gymnasium where the combined choirs performed.

“I’m Listening”

After a brief warm-up Camp Bondsteel’s Commanding Officer, Brig. General William H. Wade II welcomed our group. Then in true military fashion he said, “Start singing, I’m listening.”

I was slightly worried how the soldiers would react to our group as they filed into the gym, many still in full fatigues carrying their assigned weapons. But my worries quickly faded as I saw the seriousness on their faces transform into smiles as soon as the singing started. One soldier even started mouthing the words to “Supercalifragilicious.”

Another leaned over to Keith and asked, “Some of these kids are Albanian? And you have them singing songs about God?” When Keith answered yes, the man said, “Amen.”

The choirs sounded truly angelic in that dull gray metal gym. They performed better than I’ve ever seen them perform. And I wasn’t the only one to notice. The standing-room-only crowd gave our youth a resounding standing ovation at the end of the concert.

Visibly moved, Brig. General Wade then returned to the stage with a number of assistants. He presented Ric Smith and Liz Shropshire certificates of appreciation and each of the performers was given an Olympic-style medal on a red, white, and blue ribbon.

Then to our surprise Brig. General Wade presented to the American and Kosovar choirs a special “Task Force Falcon” medal; a medal that is usually reserved for high-ranking figures and soldiers who perform above expectations. Brig. General Wade told the crowd it was the first time the award has been presented to, “someone who has come here to entertain us.”

I made a note to ask the Brig. General why he presented such a high honor to our groups, but he answered my question in his closing remarks to the crowd.

“I miss my kids. Thanks for sharing your day with me. It makes me feel better.”

Mission accomplished.

Helicopter Anyone?
After the concert was over we boarded the same busses and were given a tour of the huge Camp Bondsteel complex. The highlight was an up-close and personal tour of the helicopter operations. We were given tours of both Apache and Blackhawk helicopters and were able to see one land (I can’t remember which model). The youth had a blast climbing in and out of the vehicles and I think the soldiers had fun showing off the equipment. As a gesture of thanks Ric quickly assembled the choirs as we were getting ready to leave the helicopter area for an impromptu concert. I swear I saw a few tears in the soldiers’ eyes. At least one said he missed his kids and was really glad we visited.

(I've posted more photos in a separate message below)

Until next time…..

More Bondsteel Photos

2005-08-07T04:30:00.000-06:00

ZR School Concert Photos

2005-08-06T21:11:00.000-06:00

On Friday, August 5th, our Muscatine choir members performed an outdoor concert at the ZR school with fellow SMF volunteers and SMF program participants. The group performed so well (despite the chilly weather) that even the neighborhood chickens came into the school yard to listen!

Photos from the concert are below.

Weather Update - From One Extreme to the Other

2005-08-06T18:28:00.000-06:00

Since we’ve all written about the hot weather I thought I should give you a brief update on the weather now. The heat wave started to break late Wednesday night. It rained overnight and into Thursday morning. Once the clouds cleared it turned a bit steamy again but nothing like the triple-digit weather we’d been experiencing since we arrived.

It was cooler on Friday and rain threatened all day but the clouds broke just in time for our youth to sing their outdoor concert at the ZR school. I suppose you could call it divine intervention.

Saturday was the coldest day yet. This was the day we visited Camp Bondsteel and I would be surprised if the mercury passed 70 degrees the entire day. It never rained but it was cloudy and windy. It was so cold that they moved the concert indoors.

Today (Sunday) is just plain beautiful. I suppose that’s how it should be since it is our last full day in Gjakove.

August 5th Update

2005-08-05T09:50:00.000-06:00

Today our schedule was similar to the schedule of the past few days. The group spent the morning at the ZR school conducting classes, eye exams, health screenings; etc. Our youth also practiced for their concert tonight. It is scheduled to take place at 7pm in the outdoor courtyard of the ZR school (despite the fact that we need the rain....I hope it doesn't rain tonight!).

So, instead of sending another long message I am posting some random photos taken throughout our visit. Enjoy!

Observations from Lori Carroll - August 5th

2005-08-05T09:46:00.000-06:00

I've been a performing musician for 40 years. (Well, 45 if you count the solos I sang at my kindergarten graduation.) But yesterday I had one of the most - if not THE most - moving experiences of my musical life.

After teaching music classes at Slovene Camp, which were fun but not as successful as our first ones (in my opinion, it was because of the change in barometric pressure after the previous night's thunderstorm and the resulting cooler - YAY - weather), a small group of us were just standing around in the large classroom. Besides myself, it was Michaella Calzaretta, Kate Johnson, Ric Smith and Ali, one of the Shropshire volunteers. We sort of slowly started singing rounds - 3 and 4-part - and it just kept getting better. We were so in tune...not just musically, but emotionally and mentally. There we were in a room that was built (I think) for the refugees' cooking and laundry facilities, but is now devoid of anything but 4 concrete walls, some nailed-shut windows, a low ceiling, and a filthy tiled floor. All of that disappeared from my consciousness, because the sound in there was amazing. (Italics and boldface, I'm sure, won't help to convey what I mean by that word.) We sang all the songs we've been teaching the kids. They always do a good job in an innocent-sounding way. Suddenly, though, there were 5 voices with fair amounts of training and experience that blended like the best colors, textures, feelings, that you can imagine.

At some point, Keith Porter started recording (with good equipment). By the time we stopped, we were all flushed and euphoric. Then we listened to the recording on Keith's headphones, which is very different from what you hear when you're actually singing. It felt as if I was seeing the face of God.

Amazing.

Observations by Pete Korpi - August 5th

2005-08-05T09:33:00.000-06:00

From my perspective everything went marvelously - not perfectly mind you, because I always manage to forget something, and there's always the feeling that maybe I could have done just a little bit more, but all things considered I am pleased. As far as the cold statistics go, we managed to check about 290 people, and handed out well over 100 pairs of glasses, as well as eye medications where needed. We ran short of some prescriptions, had plenty of others, but that has always been sort of a "shooting in the dark" proposition when we're preparing glasses. The most heart warming cases are the kids who have need for incredibly strong prescriptions - like can't see more than 3 inches in front of them- type prescriptions. Today we had such a child who needed a super strong prescription, and we only had a pair that was 1/3 of what he needed, but his face just lit up when he put it on. Then he comes and gives me a hug and a kiss on the cheek. I just about came apart from the emotion of that moment, and in that one instant I've received all the thanks I could ever need for this week and months to come. Think I'll consider doing something like this again? It is an absolute certainty.

Thursday, August 4th Update and Photos

2005-08-04T11:49:00.000-06:00

I am going to make this fairly short (I am a bit tired from typing most of the afternoon).

This morning we returned to Slovene Village for our final visit. We conducted many of the same programs and added a few including tap dancing lessons and needlework for the teenage girls in Slovene.

(Photos from the day are posted below)

I should mention that Nick Korpi and Tom Porter spent all Wednesday night at Slovene with Lum (one of the boys who visited Muscatine last summer). I think they had a really great experience and I hope they will write up their reactions for the blog in the next few days.

Until next time....

Kristin's Special Little Boy

2005-08-04T11:42:00.000-06:00

On a chilly November night in 2002 a little boy in Slovene Village captured my heart. His blond Shirley Temple curls and freckled face stood out in Liz’s singing class even though he was so small that he could barely see over the desk. He was so cute I just wanted to pack him in one of my suitcases and take him home with me.

I took several photos of "my little boy" during our short visit to Slovene Village that night. My favorite still sits in a frame on one of my office filing cabinets. I learned many months later that his name is Hadji (Haxhi in Albanian). Hadji is now seven years old and still lives in Slovene Village.

Tuesday night we were reunited.

Liz knew I was fond of Hadji and had one of the mothers in the camp arrange a meeting. As we walked in the direction of his home, Hadji came running up one of Slovene’s crushed rock paths. I instantly picked him up and gave him a huge hug. He hugged me right back.

Hadji is much taller now and his hair has been trimmed into a military-style cut. But his big eyes and freckles are just the way I remember them.

Keith and I tried to have a conversation with him through an interpreter but Hadji barely made a noise when answering our questions. We soon learned from his mother that Hadji has been sick with a sore throat. I am not a mother but I guess my motherly instincts kicked-in because I immediately wanted Mike Hartman to look at him.

Hadji held my hand as I led him to the field where Mike was standing. I wanted to cry when Mike told me Hadji’s tonsils were really swollen and he needed antibiotics. Despite his illness Hadji danced the night away with the rest of our group.

I had kept my eye on Hadji most of the night but lost track of him as our group was preparing to leave. Somehow his mother found the van I was sitting in and lifted Hadji so I could give the boy one last hug for the night.

I was expecting to see Hadji again on Thursday when our group visited Slovene one last time. My expectations were shattered when his mother told me that Hadji was at his uncle’s house in Gjakove resting after visiting a doctor. His mother must have seen the disappointment on my face because an hour later Hadji was back in Slovene.

He was clearly not feeling well but I was relieved when Mike told me Hadji’s throat looked much better. My spirits were lifted even more when his Hadji’s eyes were given a clean bill of health by Dr. Pete Korpi. I walked Hadji to his home and through pantomime told him he needed to rest. He plopped down on a bed with a few of the toy cars I brought for him. I kissed him on the top of his head and walked away with tears in my eyes.

To my surprise he re-appeared several minutes later with his mother. She thanked me for the gifts and said, "Hadji loves you very much." I replied, "I love him very much too." Liz later told me his mother would gladly let me take him home with me but I know that’s not practical.

Just as I was about to load into the van for the ride back to Gjakove Keith took one last picture of me holding Hadji. I know it will be the next framed picture in my office. I boarded the van and waved goodbye. Hadji smiled and waved back. Tears streamed down my cheeks and I couldn’t look back as we drove out of Slovene for the last time. I know I will probably never have the chance to give Hadji another hug.

It doesn’t matter. Hadji will always be my very special little boy.

Wednesday, August 3rd Update

2005-08-04T11:32:00.000-06:00

This morning we started the day by visiting a school in a settlement known as Kolonije. Situated on the outskirts of Gjakove, the area is home to several Roma families.

Often referred to as Gypsies, the Roma are viewed with great disdain in much of Europe. There are several thousand scattered in shanty-town settlements across Kosovo. Here they are afraid to live in town so instead they live in squalid conditions.

The brightest part of the Kolonije's Roma neighborhood is a school in the shadows of a chocolate factory. It is a relatively new school. In fact, its facilities are much nicer than other schools I have visited in Kosovo. A number of American non-profit organizations fund Roma education projects in Europe, hence the new building.

Dozens of children sitting in tiny wooden chairs outside cheered and waved as our caravan arrived. Some were dressed in rags while others were dressed in what might be their best outfits. Two of the little girls were wearing white frilly satin dresses. They looked like ballerinas but I must say they also looked a bit out of place.

Our plan for the morning was similar to all of the other places we have visited. Our youth and adults divided up and set up shop. Ric and Lori took charge of music. Jon and Neva turned a classroom into an art studio. The Korpis and Mike set-up the eye and medical clinic and Doreen, with the help of several Muscatine youth and SMF volunteers, set up a t-shirt tie-dying class outside.

It was great fun.

As you can imagine the children loved the tie-dying process and art. Many students proudly wore their t-shirts (still dripping wet!) and beamingly showed off their artwork. But, the Kolonije students also really loved the music classes. Even some of the oldest kids hanging around (in their late teens) were engaged in the music sessions. It was great to see these teenage boys sing and play the hand-clapping game, "Miss Mary Mack."

The biggest challenge during each one of these school visits is finding ways to keep the children busy until every one of them has an opportunity to visit the eye and medical clinics. So as time wore on and Doreen had run out of shirts and Jon had run out of paper, our youths took over. Michaella Calzaretta and Ben Rivera showed off their tap dancing skills. Hanna Porter, Emma Smith and Kate Johnson (among others) taught the Roma kids how to braid friendship bracelets. Others engaged the kids with duck-duck-goose and other group games outside.

Doreen wrapped up our visit by handing out little stickers to the children. But, she made each one say "please" before giving them one. One boy came up to me and stuck his sticker directly on my skin near the base of my throat.

Unlike some of the other places we have visited, these children seemed to have more medical problems. Mike said he saw "lots and lots" of head lice. Of course as soon as he told us that, many of us started scratching our heads! (I don't think anyone caught lice but just the mere mention makes me itch). Dr Korpi brought dozens of pairs of prescription glasses but he still runs into some special cases that he can't handle with what he has brought along. This was the case with one little Kolonije girl. He dilated her eyes to make sure he could determine her needed prescription as best he could. He told me he will make her a pair of glasses when he returns home and will ship them back here. Because her eyes were dilated, she needed to wear sunglasses outdoors. She was quite proud of those glasses.

(I've posted photos from Kolonije in a separate message below)

Happy Birthday Dr. Smith!
We left the school well after 1pm and returned to the house where Ric Smith is staying. Wednesday was his birthday and the group had been planning a party since before we left the States.

Cynthia Smith, Karen Morgan, Anne Olson and Janet Barry had spend the entire morning preparing lunch, decorating the house with balloons and streamers, and a special treat for the Muscatine and SMF groups. Cynthia, Karen and Anne made spaghetti and macaroni and cheese at their house while Janet baked brownies at our house.

I wasn't there to see how Janet made the brownies but I know it was quite a culinary adventure. She had brought three brownie mixes from the States but there was no room to pack baking pans. So she combined two of the mixes into a large, deep metal serving tray we found in our basement. She baked the third box in a smaller, but similar pan.

I must say, they managed to make some of the best spaghetti, macaroni and cheese and brownies I have ever tasted. The brownies were served with ice cream (scooped into small plastic drinking cups).

Everyone sang "Happy Birthday" and Ric received cards, a Shropshire shirt signed by all of the youth and a few other items. I can't speak for Ric but I thought it was a cool way to celebrate his birthday.

(I've posted a few photos of the party in a separate message below)

Shopping Excursion
After Ric's party we had the rest of the afternoon off. Doreen and I decided to head to the old part of Gjakove to go shopping. Getting there was interesting. We had to walk several blocks to find a taxi and when we found one (an older Mercedes) the driver didn't speak English. Liz had said all we needed to tell the taxi driver "old town" and we would get there. Well Liz apparently doesn't know this taxi driver because he had no idea what we were saying.

We drove a few blocks before we made him stop and Doreen shouted out the window at any and everyone passing by looking for someone who spoke English. After several failed attempts to find someone to tell our driver where we wanted to go, we just paid him and started walking in the direction we thought we needed to go. It turns out that we were only a few blocks from the shops we wanted to visit...so in the end we could have just walked. Oh well...we now have another great travel story to tell.

Doreen and I shopped for a few hours and bought a few trinkets to bring back to the States. The shops are located near a few of the more popular "hang-outs" for the youth in Gjakove: a restaurant called the "Hard Rock Cafe" and the local "McDonalds." No...they are not the REAL thing but it is interesting to see American influence interpreted in other countries. The McDonald's sign looks very, very similar to some we would see in the US. I'm sure McDonald's would NOT approve.

After shopping I worked on the blog and a few photos before heading down to meet an number of other Muscatine participants at the "Oita" restaurant. This is the same place we ate the first night and the one that supplied the pizzas for our gathering last week. It has become one of our hang-outs. Good thing they have a generator. Just as Neva Baker and I were walking up to the restaurant the power went out (of course!).

Bring on the Rain!!!
Clouds started rolling into to Gjakove just before dinner and it started to lightning off in the distance as we left the restaurant and headed to our other favorite hang-out: the internet cafe.

I managed to get all of my computer work done just before the storm hit. But, it was raining when Doreen and I left the internet cafe. We couldn't find a taxi so I tucked her video camera under my shirt and started walking towards our house. Halfway home we flagged down a taxi.

I always love the first thunderstorm every spring but usually grow tired of them by the end of the summer. Not this time. I've never been so happy to hear thunder, see lighting and hear rain. Hopefully it will cool us off a bit!

I took a shower when I got home (we have to split shower time...half of us take one in the morning and the other half in the evening so everyone gets at least a little hot water). As soon as I was climbing into bed the power went off. I slept better last night then I have the entire trip!

Until next time....

Photos from Kolonije

2005-08-04T10:56:00.000-06:00

Happy Birthday Ric!

2005-08-04T10:29:00.000-06:00

Wednesday, August 3rd was Ric Smith's 47th birthday. Happy Birthday Ric!

Thoughts from Keith Porter - August 3rd

2005-08-03T15:03:00.000-06:00

Most of the world (except for Serbia and a handful of other countries) seems inclined toward making Kosovo an independent country...but they have legitimate concerns about how Kosovo is treating its minorities. The international community has been telling the Kosovar Albanian majority (in so many words): your years of persecution by the Serbs does not absolve you of the moral obligation to protect the minorities you are now responsible for governing.

Serbs may be the most visible and vocal victims of rights abuses here, but the Roma also get their share of abuse and neglect. So it was interesting to visit Kolonije, a Roma community, today. Roma's are an ethnic group often referred to as Gypsies...and they are found across much of Europe. And they are treated poorly just about everywhere.

The places where the people live are awful. There are a few permanent homes, but mostly I saw shacks surround by mud and trash. But the facility we used was pretty nice. We did music, art, and craft classes in an education center built by a private charity. The center exists to prepare area children for public school. Many of these kids, including a 13 year old we met today, have never set foot in a school.

But the best part was seeing how our Kosovo Albanian partners interacted with these Roma kids. Liz says she gave her volunteers the option of opening new weekly classes in a variety of communities...and they chose this place. Seeing the love and generosity they share with the Roma kids in Kolonije gives me new hope for Kosovo.

Tuesday, August 2nd Update

2005-08-03T14:50:00.000-06:00

We started the day at the Zekina Rexha (or ZR) school. It was our group's second visit to the school near the outskirts of Gjakove. As with all of our other school or camps stops, we had a number of different activities set up in various classrooms.

Jon held art classes in one room, Lori and Ric led singing in another, and Anne Olson and Karen Morgan held a photography workshop. All of the Muscatine youth and SMF volunteers were assigned to rooms and they helped the kids rotate through the various exercises. The cacophony of sounds moving through the halls was spirited and filled with happiness.

While all of this was going on, Pete and Kristi Korpi were conducting eye exams and Mike Hartman was holding his health clinic. Both the eye and health clinics are popular and they always draw a crowd as word spreads through the neighborhoods that the clinics are free. Today we had to limit the exams to just the children who regularly attend Liz's program at the ZR school. I know Mike and the Korpi's wouldn't turn anyone away but there just isn't enough time to see everyone.

While we were waiting for the final kids to move through the eye and health screening line, the youth participants practiced for their upcoming concerts. I was sitting in a location far from the rehearsal room but I could still hear our youth loud and clear. I still get Goosebumps when I hear the Muscatine and Kosovar youth perform together.

I didn't come to this school when the group first visited last week so I was surprised when I arrived to find a picture of me on the wall near the main staircase! Liridona, one of Liz's students who visited Muscatine last summer, put together a few posters of pictures from her trip. One of them is the photo Liz took of me as the children presented me with a traditional Albanian wedding hat on the day of their final concert performance at Wesley United Methodist Church. I had never seen that photo so I guess this added to the shock value.

It was yet again another hot day and I could definitely tell some of our participants are starting to wear down from the heat and our always on-the-go schedule. Liz has reworked the schedule for the rest of this week to allow for some free time so our group can rest and relax a bit. We left the ZR school and walked a few short blocks to a place the locals call "Teqe".

Ali, one of the boys who visited Muscatine last summer, was our host. Teqe is the place of worship for the Dervish in the region. Dervish is a more mystical sect of the Muslim faith. I would say more about this visit but I am so unfamiliar with this sect that I am afraid I will say something that is not factually correct. I can tell you that Ali's father apparently runs the Teqe we visited but it's unclear to me how he got the position.

In the afternoon I spent nearly four hours working on updates for this blog, writing for the Journal and editing photos. At one point I brought the laptop downstairs to the dinner table and Janet Barry served dinner around me. Janet, by the way, has really been a big help in our house. She aids with the cooking (not just for our house but for BOTH the Muscatine and Kosovo groups at times). She makes do with what we find at the store and she still manages to serve great food.

Tuesday Night Music Club
Tonight we returned to Slovene Village for Liz's regular Tuesday evening classes. It was a chilly Tuesday night in 2002 at Slovene when Keith and I first saw Liz's program in action. Liz still holds class in the same stark white rectangular room in Slovene's "recreation" center (it is little more than a rat infested building with walls, two rooms and several desks and chairs). But unlike 2002, I DID NOT have to wear my winter coat tonight! It was already sweltering before the nearly 100 youth and adults in attendance crammed into the room.

Words cannot do justice to what I witnessed tonight. Liz started the evening by having the Muscatine youth perform for the Slovene kids. The Slovene kids were silent and wide-eyed with amazement throughout the performance. Then, Liz played guitar while the Slovene children sang for our group. Some of the Slovene children are barely old enough to walk but they still sit at the tables and do their best to mouth the words.

It was at this point that I was completely overwhelmed with emotion. I someone had told me three years ago that I would be standing in the same room hearing the same songs that the Slovene children performed when Keith and I first visited Slovene I would have told that person they were crazy. Never in my life did I think I would return here.

Keith and I made a CD of the music we recorded in Slovene in 2002 and since that time our youth have learned many of the songs. So it was extra special to see our youth singing side-by-side with the Slovene kids. But, our kids don't know all of the words to every song simply because Liz has had a few translated into Albanian.

One of those songs is "Supercalifragilicious"...the song from the movie Mary Poppins that everyone knows but cannot spell! (including me). I could see our youth wide-eyed with amazement when the Slovene kids started singing the second verse in Albanian.

Keith has already said this in an earlier message but I will say it again. It is classes like the one in Slovene where Liz is truly in her element. It doesn't matter how hot or how cold it is outside, Liz is always wearing a big smile when the kids perform. And she should wear a big smile. She personally set up this program and she deserves all of the credit for the magic we witnessed tonight. In many ways Liz is a modern day Mary Poppins. She has taken troubled youth and turned them into great kids (even if they are only on their best behavior when she's holding class).

I clapped along with everyone else when the song ended but then I had to leave the room. I was so overwhelmed after hearing that song that I didn't just cry... I sobbed...tears of joy. I knew I would lose all emotions at some point during this trip and that song sent me over the edge. Kristi Korpi came over and handed me Kleenex (many thanks!) and Jon gave me a big hug.

Both groups sang several more songs before Liz directed all of the children to the larger of the two rooms in the recreation center. Several adults wondered what was going on but I knew all along what was about to happen. Liz ended her class in 2002 with a great rendition of "Skip to My Lou" and that's exactly what she did last night. I sang along (as did many of the adults) as I watched the kids laugh and work into a frenzy as the verses got faster and faster. The floor in that room is SO dirty that many people (including myself) could easily slip and slide halfway across the room. But no one seemed to mind as they slipped across the floor.

The joyous atmosphere morphed into a large dance free-for-all after Liz and a few of her volunteers set-up a boom box and started playing a CD of traditional Albanian music. Liz told the group, "We're going to teach the Americans how to really dance." And that's exactly what happened. Dance lines started snaking through the room, the Albanian girls swiveled their hips and the Americans in the room (young and old) followed along. It got SO hot in that room that the two rickety windows in the room (that are nailed shut or stuck closed) started to fog over like the windows in Iowa houses do on very cold winter days. When I walked outside for some air my glasses fogged over. It must have been at least 20 degrees cooler outside!

The dancing continued for at least another hour. Liz told me that sometimes wedding celebrations in that room will last until 3AM. I can believe it. No one wanted to leave. We were just having too much fun.

Indeed, something very special happened here tonight.

(Note....I've posted some photos from the day below)

Until next time...

Photos From Tuesday Night Slovene Village Music Class

2005-08-03T14:32:00.000-06:00

Photos from ZR School - August 2nd

2005-08-03T14:25:00.000-06:00

Prizren Trip

2005-08-02T15:20:00.000-06:00

Prizren
After completing our various group tasks at both Slovene Village and the Dujake Village school on Monday morning (see earlier message), we grabbed a bite to eat at our homes and then packed up the vans for the drive to Prizren.

Prizren is a beautiful city in the southern part of Kosovo (between the Albanian and Macedonian borders). Our guide for the afternoon was an American named Rich Sweeny. Rich, a former police officer in Utah, now works for UNMIK (the United Nation's Mission in Kosovo). His job is to help advise the Kosovo Police Force (KPS) the local police agency developed by UNMIK after the war. Rich's wife, Wendy, spends two days a week assisting Liz in Gjakove.

According to Rich, Prizren was once the capital of Kosovo and was part of the Roman Empire. Some of the buildings in the area are more than 1000 years old. There is a Turkish bathhouse near the city center and many mosques. Prizren was and continues to be heavily influenced by Turkish settlers. Because of this Prizren didn't suffer the same level of destruction as other places in Kosovo during the war.

The Serbian Monastery
Before visiting the city center, we drove through the narrow, winding streets of Prizren and continued heading south along another breathtaking highway similar to the road we took to Rugove Canyon last week. Our destination was the Serbian Orthodox Monastery of the Arch Angels. As you can probably imagine, a number of the Albanian children in Liz's group did not want to visit a site so closely associated with the Serbs, so we dropped them off at a recreational area nearby (that included an artificial turf soccer field).

Keith and I visited Prizren one afternoon when we were here in 2002. I remember our driver took us out to the Monastery but we didn't get out of the car then. I remember however, that is was a beautiful place beside a river filled with historic architecture.

Sadly, it doesn't look that way now. The Monastery was badly damaged in the March 2004 riots that swept across Kosovo.

At the time, tensions were running high here in Kosovo and they boiled over after three Kosovar Albanian boys from South Mitrovica drowned in the Ibar River. For context, the Ibar River divides Mitrovica into two sections; North and South. It is what many journalists refer to as a "flashpoint" town. Kosovar Albanians live in South Mitrovica while the population in North Mitrovica is mainly of Serbian decent. South Mitrovica is much more prosperous (in Kosovo terms) than North Mitrovica. Keith and I were allowed to visit North Mitrovica in 2002 (for about three hours) but only because we were accompanied by French KFOR peacekeepers.

According to news accounts that I read at the time, another child who was with the boys that drowned told relatives they were being chased by Serbs. This sparked a wave of violence and riots against the small number of Serbs that still remain in Kosovo. Many of the Orthodox Churches across Kosovo were attacked and destroyed even though KFOR troops had been assigned to guard them. Although I cannot verify it now, I recall reading days after the riots that the child survivor in Mitrovica later told authorities his group was being chased by a dog rather than Serbs. True or not, this one incident clearly indicates that Kosovo has not yet healed from the conflict.

OK...back to the Monastery outside Prizren. The grounds resemble nothing like I remember from 2002. A German KFOR unit now guards the Monastery grounds round the clock. The grounds are surrounded by razor wire, sand bags and improvised rock walls made from mesh, plastic sheeting and crushed rock. It looks much more like a military fort than a place of worship. The military presence is so strong that we were not allowed to take photographs outside of the Monastery but we were allowed to take photos inside as long as we avoided the German tanks and guard towers monitoring various entrances.

We had to cross over a heavily guarded wooden and steel bridge to reach the actual grounds. The bridge reminds me of ones I see in old World War Two movies. We then filed past two German tanks and walked through ornate steel doors to reach the inner grounds.

According to the monk who graciously gave us a tour, the Monastery was built in the 14th Century and was one of the most beautiful in all of Europe at one time. At one time the Monastery boasted, a library, a dining room and hospital in addition to the main church.
The building I remember seeing previously is now a burned-out shell; much of its roof is caved in or missing. It is closest to the road and according to our guide was built in the 1990's after Communism ended in Eastern Europe. It was built as a museum to honor the ancient history of the Monastery and it contained a number of historical artifacts. Many of those artifacts were destroyed or burned during the riots.

I couldn't help but feel sad as I walked into the room that our guide described as the "most beautiful part of the church." The ceiling is charred and large burn patterns in the stone are all that remain of the Orthodox icons that once adorned the walls. The remnants of what must have been a gorgeous chandelier still hangs in the center of the small, circular room; it's twisted metal a symbol of just how much hatred is still here six years after the war has ended.
The Monastery is in the process of rebuilding, but I expect it will be a slow process.

The Long, Steep Hike
After we left the Monastery, we stopped at the recreation area to pick up the rest of Liz's group. Some of our youth and adults cooled their feet in the cool river water (same river that runs next to the Monastery) while others enjoyed a cool beverage.

We then headed back to Prizren to shop in the small stores near the river and visit the city's ancient fortress.

Have I mentioned that...IT IS REALLY HOT HERE! So what did most of us decide to do on what felt like the hottest day in history? We walked a mile up a very steep, winding, and narrow road to the top of the hill overlooking Prizren. This is where the ancient fortress is located.

Let me just say I got a week's worth of exercise on the walk up the hill and another week's worth when I walked back down. This path puts every Stairmaster, elliptical trainer and treadmill known to man to shame! Halfway up I was questioning my sanity but in the end I am glad I made the hike. You can see all of Prizren from the old fortress. Breathtaking (literally!) is the best way to describe it.

Along the path to the fortress, our participants got a small glimpse of the type of damage that was present throughout Kosovo immediately after the war. The area just below the fortress was a Serb enclave up until the March 2004 riots. Now many of the homes and shops are burned-out shells, missing roofs or have been reduced to a pile of rubble. Eerily, it looked like the same destruction Keith and I saw in North Mitrovica in 2002. It is a shame to see so much destruction in what otherwise is a beautiful location.

After the hike, we joined the others who didn't brave the hill in an area filled with small shops and outdoor cafes. Some in our group took in more of the sights in the area, some shopped and others ate dinner and ice cream.

(I've posted some scenic photos from the day below)

We left Prizren after dark and arrived back in Gjakove around 9:30pm. I immediately headed off to the internet cafe to update this blog and send new material to the Muscatine Journal. I didn't return to my house until after 11:30pm.

And if you think you are tired after reading this long entry, imagine how tired all of us here in Gjakove are! The heat combined with days crammed full of singing, art and sight seeing is really wearing us down.

Until next time...

Photos of Prizren

2005-08-02T15:11:00.000-06:00

Photos of The Serbian Monastery Near Prizren

2005-08-02T14:57:00.000-06:00

After the March 17, 2004 riots.

Photos of the Monastery before the riots.

Impressions from Doreen Borde - August 2nd

2005-08-02T14:54:00.000-06:00

The country and people of Kosovo are so beautiful and giving. I went shopping the other day at the market across from our house we have nicknamed, "The Palace". The total for the bill was three euro but all I had was 50 euro and the store owner didn't have enough change and told me to come back and pay tomorrow. That is what the people in Kosovo are like.

My goal here in Kosovo is to touch as many people as I can and bring and smile and happiness into their lives. I have captured 6 hours of video and taken over 500 pictures in the 7 days we have been here and am eager to capture many more memories.

My daughter, Taylor, is staying with a beautiful family. Today, Neva Baker and I went to visit them and ended up with a six course meal for lunch. It was delicious!! The vegetables are great here and grown locally. Did you know that you can buy a watermelon or cantaloupe on the street corner at 12:00 a.m.?

Thoughts from Keith Porter - August 2nd

2005-08-02T14:39:00.000-06:00

The last time I was in this room at Slovene Village with Liz Shropshire's group, I had my coat on the entire time. Tonight, it is as least 100 degrees in here, but the spirit is every bit as rich as it was before.

Liz does so much now it is easy to forget that this is where the magic happens. When Liz has the guitar around her neck and stands face-to-face with a bunch of kids living in a camp for families still displaced by war....the world seems like a better place for everyone (not just the camp residents).

In this setting, Liz's daily worries....fundraising, schedules, the discipline of her volunteer leaders, finding ways for Kosovars to study in America....all slip away. And she is left with the music and smiles.

Reflections from Anne Olson - August 2nd

2005-08-02T14:27:00.000-06:00

Note....Anne is teaching photography classes on this trip.

The photography composition classes have been enjoyable and rewarding. The children enter the classroom ready and eager to learn. Each pupil had a portrait taken. As the Kosovar children become acquainted with American adults, waves, "hi," and hugs abound. We've become SO close to these children in less than a week. The volunteers you the from the Shropshire Music Foundation are so helpful to translate and be of assistance.

The terrific heat takes a toll on all of us but nobody wants to give up any activity because of heat. What a rewarding experience to be part of!

Thoughts from Deb Porter -August 2nd

2005-08-02T14:14:00.000-06:00

The music practice this morning at the school (after the classes) was awesome. The eye and med clinic is important, but the blending of the two groups of talented children musicians is even more powerful. They sound great and their singing represents the bonds the children have made. We brought a great group of kids and met a great group of kids.

The disparity between the impoverished and wealthy is constantly evident. Many volunteers in Liz's program don't have cars and walk 2 miles to be a volunteer! Still there was a gorgeous yellow Ferrari parked on my street and I saw an Alfa Romeo yesterday. One student's house is a one-room hole without running water. It's the size of our computer room and there are 6 people in his family. They"live" a few blocks away in a pit. Squalor is the word that jumps into my head. This rental has running water and the use of a camp-type burner for cooking. The house that 6 of us adults are sharing has 3 large floors plus a basement.

I have taken nearly 300 pictures on my digital camera and they absolutely cannot tell the story of our experiences here. The land is so beautiful;the people so nice everywhere. It's just so foreign! Now that we've been here a week all of us have a good "feel" for the town and how to get around and buy what we need. The man in the shop next door knows Joe by name. Americans are quite popular here because when Clinton was President, the US came in and stopped the war. They act as if the Muscatine folks had something to do with it. A lady that owns the little shop by Liz was charging Muscatine kids half price (25 cents = 35 cents American -approx.) because she is grateful to Americans.

We're less shocked as our sweltering van blows past stop signs, and we refrain from flushing our toilet paper without a second thought. We're no longer surprised when we lose power and I think I've figured out how to use the washer. It holds approximately 2 adult outfits at a time. There are no dryers - just laundry racks outside.

Muscatine Youth Reactions - Part Two

2005-08-02T14:11:00.000-06:00

On Tuesday, I was able to gather written comments from the Muscatine youth that didn’t get a chance to write during the trip to the Dujake Village school. I have transcribed their comments below. I must tell you that I have been moved to tears several times as I have typed these notes over the past few days. This trip has been life-changing for our youth participants and their comments clearly reflect that.

"Everything is so beautiful. We went to a river by the mountains and it was beautiful. Besides the heat we are having so much fun." (Hanna Porter)

"Everyone is so nice in Kosovo. I thought that the people would be sad but they’re like the happiest people on earth." (Leigha Phillips)

"I am having so much fun! These kids are so happy all of the time. I wish every place would be this happy. They have so much energy." (Taylor Borde)

"At first we were really upset when we saw the conditions the people were living in (at Slovene Village.) But when we saw the little children in music classes they have the biggest smiles we had ever seen. Then we understood; they didn’t care that they had to live there. They had a roof over their heads and they were just happy to be alive." (Michaella Calzaretta and Emma Smith)

"The camp was definitely not what I was expecting. I guess I didn't know what to expect. The conditions were not as horrible as I was expecting, but I couldn't help but wonder why they had to be as bad as they were. Why was there trash on the ground when there were dumpsters available? Why were the bathrooms not maintained like Liz said they had been in years past? It made me sad to see that the camp was becoming worse. How can one be hopeful in a place that is falling apart?

When we arrived, at the small camp, a few children poked their heads around corners. As soon as they recognized the vans, they ran out to meet us. I was especially amazed at the way they greeted Burim with a cheer, chanting "Burim's here! Burim's here!" The work that the Shropshire volunteers do in the camp is so important to the kids, I could tell. They clung to the volunteers, giving hugs liberally and asking hushed questions as they stared wide-eyed at the Americans. The kids definitely noticed our presence at first. One little girl offered me a shy smile. I asked if I could take her picture and told her my name. When we played games later, she took my hand. It made my day to make another smile. I just wished I could have done more. Then I realized that sometimes all you can do is bring joy to another. That is what the Shropshire Music Foundation is all about; breaking down barriers, giving the children a chance at the joy of music, giving the children a chance at hope." (Kate Johnson)

"I’ve been helping with the medical screenings here. I had been somewhat prepared for medical work from the information I had received from my father, Dr. Wettach, but nothing could fully prepare me for assisting with the medical screenings in the camps. These poor, yet alive people, are so desperate and needing of help. Considering the hard lives of the people in the camps, this is understandable. Though we strive to help these people sometimes there are set-backs; we may not have the right type of medicine or not enough. But even through these minor set-backs there are great successes; a child with bad allergies getting weeks of medication, or a dehydrated baby receiving enough electrolyte fluid to last her at least until she can be brought to the hospital.

Though these successes may seem minor to many privileged Americans, the look of thanks and happiness on that mother’s or child’s face is enough to make it a wonderful and beautiful success. This in turn, it makes what we are doing here in Kosovo such a wonderful and beautiful experience for me." (Taylor Wettach)

Thoughts from Janet Barry

2005-08-02T14:08:00.000-06:00

I went to the camp yesterday (Slovene Village) to help Doreen with tie-dying and painting fabric quilt squares. As the first time we were there, I had constant tears inside and sometimes tears in my eyes and the song our children sing "Sing for the Children" becomes very real.

Thoughts from Cynthia Smith

2005-08-02T14:05:00.000-06:00

Monday

At the Slovene Camp, our class was held in a room supplied with table and chairs, but with ample evidence of a rat infestation. The children glow as we give them supplies and instructions. They are achingly beautiful with shiny hair and faces, their bodies strong and tan from swimming in the local creek. Intelligence beams from their eyes and they catch-on to the weaving task quickly; many of them making multiple bracelets in the hour we came together. I though they might make gifts but mostly they leave class wearing all of their handiwork.

As we waited for health and eye exams to be completed I rode with Liz and Burim to a nearby abandoned house. They hoped to sweep it out, string lights and decorate it for a camp party on Tuesday evening. But, to their surprise the house was being rebuilt as an auto-mechanic shop. The other building on the property was too full of rubble to consider.

Many people will write about the Serbian Monastery in Prizren. Our guide’s voice was mild as he recounted the riot of March 17, 204 in which his home was destroyed. But his eyes still bore the shock. The destruction wasn’t just to the buildings.

Tuesday
I’m sitting in a recorder class whose teacher is a 15-year old volunteer. Toe-tapping must be the universal way of staying together. They are sight-reading melodies with great confidence. Each child also has a harmonica at the ready.

Impressions by Lori Carroll

2005-08-02T13:57:00.000-06:00

Last night (July 31st) we had a rehearsal of the music we’ll perform with American and Kosovar kids. Because the power had gone out were in candle light. As the accompanist, I was playing a small portable keyboard with nearly-gone batteries. Every note I played sounded like a cough!

Then I looked up at the singers faces as they sang, "Shepard me, O God, beyond my fears, beyond my wants, from death in to life!" Every kid's face was involved and all eyes watched Ric as if their lives depended on it. And I thought, "THIS is world peace."

Then I couldn’t see the faces anymore for my tears. How can people kill each other?

Muscatine Youth Reactions

2005-08-01T14:24:00.000-06:00

It is another hot day here in Kosovo. Someone said yesterday the mercury jumped past 105 degrees. I have no idea if that’s true but I wouldn’t be surprised. Last night, the weatherman on CNN International said this region is in the middle of major heat wave (hottest here in 30 years). There is some hope it will cool off later this week.

Today the American and Kosovar participants divided into two groups. One, including Pete Korpi and Mike Hartman, returned to Slovene Village for more medical exams, singing and crafts. Doreen Borde and Janet Barry helped the Slovene children make tie-dye t-shirts while Cynthia Smith helped with a bracelet making class.

The second group (including myself) headed for a school in Dujake, a small village near Gjakove. There Ric Smith and Lori Carroll conducted singing classes while Jon Fasenelli-Cawelti held a short art class and Neva Baker and Karen Morgan taught some basic English. (See photos below)

Muscatine Youth Reactions
The youth participants on this trip are staying with host families scattered across Gjakove. When they are not busy rehearsing with their Kosovar counterparts, they are so busy having a good time with their hosts that it is difficult for them to find time to put their impressions of the trip on paper. This morning during a break at the Dujake Village school, we were able to gather a few reactions. I’ve transcribed their reactions below.

"The city of Gjakove, Kosovo is very fun. They have a lot of things to do. We swam in the river and had a clay fight. There are carnival rides and lots of stores. By looking at the city do you think they were in a war? Wow, it doesn’t look like it. It is a very unique place." (Ben Rivera)

"I think it is beautiful. The people are nice. They have good food and drinks. They are crazy drivers! Other than that it is perfect, except for the cats and the cat fights because they are wild." (Diana Baker)

"The trip so far has been great. I am very impressed with Kosovo." (Sam Baker)

"I think this trip was a very good thing for everyone. The people here teach us how to act and how to live our lives. Everyone is so nice and they can walk on the streets after dark without a problem. They are everything we want our country to be." (Halie Gray)

"We’ve had a lot of fun in Gjakove. We’ve been swimming in two rivers. It’s like a big family reunion. It’s nothing like I thought. There are stores everywhere and the food shops are all fun." (Joe Porter)

"After a week into the trip I am very tired, and I’m glad I’m here. Spending time with my friends in Kosovo is just like spending time with my friends in America. We’re all just kids. I’ve picked up a lot of Albanian (the local language) and they’ve picked up a lot of English. I hope the rest of the trip is just as fun." (Tom Porter)

"Kosovo is such a beautiful country. The mountains are beautiful, the town is beautiful and the people are beautiful. I have become a lot closer to everyone around me. The people can make you smile no matter what you are doing. I am so thankful to be here." (Katie Korpi)

"I like it here. It’s laid back. It’s scenic and comfortable. You wonder how the people here can live with so little and still be some of the happiest people you will ever meet. At night people will walk up to you on the street and start talking to you in broken English not seeming to notice that it’s 11 o’clock at night. We were standing in the middle of a dusty alley-way; definitely not first on my list of choices to hold a conversation in a strange country. Overall Kosovo is nothing what I thought it would be and certainly is more than I expected." (Nick Korpi)

A few photos from Dujake School

2005-08-01T14:15:00.000-06:00

I have many, many more but am unable to post several at the moment given our slow internet access. Keep checking back.

Slovene Village Reactions by Kate Johnson

2005-08-01T14:06:00.000-06:00

The camp was definitely not what I was expecting. I guess I didn't know what to expect. The conditions were not as horrible as I was expecting, but I couldn't help but wonder why they had to be as bad as they were. Why was there trash on the ground when there were dumpsters available? Why were the bathrooms not maintained like Liz said they had been in years past? It made me sad to see that the camp was becoming worse. How can one be hopeful in a place that is falling apart?

When we arrived, at the small camp, a few children poked their heads around corners. As soon as they recognized the vans, they ran out to meet us. I was especially amazed at the way they greeted Burim with a cheer, chanting "Burim's here! Burim's here!" The work that the Shropshire volunteers do in the camp is so important to the kids, I could tell. They clung to the volunteers, giving hugs liberally and asking hushed questions as they stared wide-eyed at the Americans. The kids definitely noticed our presence at first. One little girl offered me a shy smile. I asked if I could take her picture and told her my name. When we played games later, she took my hand. It made my day to make another smile. I just wished I could have done more. Then I realized that sometimes all you can do is bring joy to another. That is what the Shropshire Music Foundation is all about; breaking down barriers, giving the children a chance at the joy of music, giving the children a chance at hope.

Weekend Update

2005-08-01T12:30:00.000-06:00

Saturday
After going nearly non-stop since we arrived in Kosovo, the group took a break from our daily activities this weekend to bond with our hosts and to visit what many here say is, "the most beautiful part of Kosovo."

On Saturday we started the day by driving to the city of Peje. It took three vans and Liz’s Jeep to get all of us there. And we couldn’t have fit another person even if we tried! The van I rode in all day was packed with my fellow Muscatine adult participants. Just outside of Gjakove we were stopped at a local police check-point. Apparently our van driver doesn’t have the right license to drive so many people around. Luckily, Liz was behind us. She stopped and talked with the police officers and explained she had rented the van because we were here on a music and humanitarian exchange. They eventually let us go without giving our driver a ticket.

Once we reached Peje we walked to the Saturday open-air market. Man, it was hot. I walked through the Weekend Market in Bangkok this past February and I thought it was hot there. I think it was even hotter here. The market itself was filled with traditional crafts, household items and clothing (some, not all, fake versions of popular American clothes). Many people were selling things out of the back of their cars. I purchased a few hand knitted pillow forms. Many others bought traditional clothing, lace and table linens. The youths purchased everything from shoes to Kosovo souvenirs.

About half-way through the market we found a cool spot and ate the sack lunches we brought for the day. It was difficult to keep the entire group together in the market but somehow we managed to do it.

We left Peje just before 2pm and headed for an area known as Rugove Canyon. This breathtaking mountainous area is located along the Kosovo-Montenegro border. To reach our destination (a large, open field next to a shallow stream) we had to weave our way up the narrow road for several miles. It was a beautiful drive. The terrain reminded me of areas of Colorado.

We stopped in an open area with views of a small but beautiful waterfall while waiting for others in our caravan to catch-up. But once we were on our way again we almost immediately had to stop. A large flat-bed semi truck was stuck in one of the road’s narrow tunnels (wedged in-between two rather sharp curves in the road). It was quite a sight. Our driver directed while the truck drive carefully navigated the tunnel. Slowly but surely the truck made it out of the tunnel. I’m not sure how he made it up the mountain to begin with!

When we reached our destination, youths and adults quickly took off their shoes to wade into the shallow stream. I’m told the water was ice cold (I didn’t go in the water). Everyone seemed to have great fun. Jon Fasanelli-Calwelti and Ben Rivera actually took a swim. Others simply dipped their feet. Most of the youths played for hours in and along the stream. I took pictures and just enjoyed the cool mountain breeze.

We were not alone in the area where we stopped. There were several other families picnicking near us. Towards the end of our visit one of the men came over and offered our group sweet bread. Liz told us it was a huge gesture….mainly because this particular bread takes an entire day to make. As a gesture of thanks, Ric and Liz assembled the combined youth choirs for a small performance. I still get goose bumps when I see our Muscatine youth and members of SMF perform.

The crowd applauded the performance. Just around 5pm we left for the two-hour drive back to Gjakove. It was a fun and relaxing day.

Note...see photos from the day below

We arrived back just around 7pm and the entire group was due at the house I am living in at 8pm for dinner. Trying to cook for this many people is a daunting task so we decided to order pizza. We provided drinks (Gatorade and Crystal Light), vegetable salad and a few other appetizers. We were expecting 35 pizzas to be delivered shortly after 8pm so we waited, and waited, and waited some more. Finally, Burim drove to the restaurant and picked-up the pizza himself. We ordered so many pizzas that the restaurant brought the last dozen to our house.
The food was great, the youths had a great time singing and playing and the adults enjoyed a great evening of conversation.

Shortly after 10pm we lost power. Boy…that was interesting. I quickly made my way to my room for one of my flashlights and others in the house started lighting candles. Once we had a bit of light in the main living area, the main hallway and two of the bathrooms, the fun and play continued as if there was nothing wrong.

People started filtering out of the house around midnight and the power returned shortly thereafter. I must say that everyone was really good about cleaning up after themselves. I had fears the house would look like a scene out of the movie Animal House but clean-up wasn’t as bad as we expected. It took longer to boil water so we could wash dishes more than anything else.

Exhausted, we didn’t get to bed until after 1am.

Sunday
Today we are spending the afternoon with various host families. Anne Olson and I are going to Burim’s house. Burim stayed at my house when he visited Muscatine in 2004. I am really excited to finally meet his family. Tonight the children will rehearse. Tomorrow we return to our busy schedule.

Until next time…..

More Photos of Rugove Canyon

2005-07-31T12:54:00.000-06:00

Note...I can only upload so many photos at a time.

Photos of Rugove Canyon

2005-07-31T12:42:00.000-06:00

Photos of Peje Market

2005-07-31T12:38:00.000-06:00

Slovene Village Impressions by Ric Smith

2005-07-31T12:31:00.000-06:00

The Slovene refugee camp is not a very hopeful place: the people who live there would rather live almost anywhere else, but there is no other place for them, no family to take them in, no relief or social security or welfare agency to give them a hand up. So why do we enjoy the work here so much?

Obviously the children are the primary delight---singing, dancing,playing,drawing, laughing.

They are so full of life and anticipation. They are so eager for affection and attention and just as willing to give it. Most of these children don't remember any other life or home. Many were born here. It seems to me that they have every reason to sulk or withdraw into the privacy of trauma or to be depressed, but there is not a single, unhappy face. Their enthusiasm in everything is contagious. Their delight in us is the happiest gifts I've ever torn into.

Ric Smith
7-28-05
Gjakove, Kosovo

Slovene Village Impressions by Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti

2005-07-31T12:26:00.000-06:00

"This beautiful countryside-who dumped these storage units in this field? Oh! This is where people live-no shade-in the middle of nowhere-away from everyone else.

The trash reminds me of our cities-litter is the same everywhere but the dumpster is no where near full so why not try and put it in instead of around?

Where are the people-oh here they come-I’ve rarely been greeted like this in my life-we are SPECIAL-kids are the same everywhere, eager, curious, friendly-the adults are not coming out but I see a few faces behind curtains in these tiny windows in these white industrial boxes. This is a harsh a bleak place but there is plenty of love in these childrens’ eyes."

Impressions by Dan Gray

2005-07-31T10:04:00.000-06:00

So many thoughts.

I know I've never thought about the fact that we do not have new graveyards created by random and intentional bombings, or by the killing of women,children, fathers, grandfathers, etc. And that the graveyards are not from conflicts on Park Avenue or bombings on West 2nd Street. I talked with one parent who said, "We are thankful that the Americans have helped us regain our freedom." "They have never turned their backs on us."

On the other hand there is so much beauty here, architecture, mountains, lakes, rivers. And I've not come across a person who hasn't offered ahand shake or a hello. It's kind of like they are in the nineteenth century with horse drawn produce wagons and cows grazing in the park, and the 20th century is across the street in the internet cafe. One interesting thing happened the other night. We had returned to our common meeting place after a long day traveling to an old Albanian Marketplace and to the mountains to visit a trout farm and restaurant. The vehicles were somewhat spread out and with poor communication. Myself and two other adults were left with three children at about 10:30PM. While we were fretting and planning about how to get these kids to their respective homes, the youngest boy about 4 foot tall simply said, "I'll be right back." and ran down the street. Now we were left with two children and one missing child. I thought that he had simply went to the corner to check directions. I was beginning to worry when he didn't come back right away. A few moment later a cab pulled up to us with the young man inside. I guess he was tired of us trying to come up with the solution so he just came up with his own.

Observations by Mike Hartman

2005-07-29T15:44:00.000-06:00

The Slovene village was not as bad as I expected, but I guess the bathrooms were horrendous. It was a little dirty, and I did not see as many people and kids as I expected. The homes are small metal shipping containers which I could see us camping in for a few days, but these people have lived there for 6-8 years. I did several screenings, most of the kids were not too bad off. One boy had some hearing loss and a ruptured eardrum that had been oozing for a long time - due to a bomb blast. Madeline helped with the music class there.

In the evening, the whole group got together and sang and danced - lots of fun. We went back to the restaurant we ate at the night before and I had the same thing again - Skenderbeg. Good food - real cheap in the restaurants - 5 euro for a dinner and drink.

Today we went to the school in town. I saw a number of adults - somehow word got out about Dr. Korpi and me and neighbors stopped by (oops!) they eventually were told that we would let them know when all the kids were seen first. Liz told us later that most of the schools kept memorials or recognized the children and sometimes the teachers who were killed in the war, but this school did not have such a thing - too many dead. I

Tonight we went to a village near Albania for trout. It was very good and in the mountains near a nice (if the trash was not there) lake. The bathrooms were literally holes in the floor. The picture attached is of Maddie, me, and her host Blendiana. They are having a blast. Belndiana has thanked Liz many times for letting her host. Madeline has said only good things and she is learning some Albanian ("boys are crazy", "tomatoes are bad, bananas good").

If you can, let the church know we appreciate their prayers and support. We are making a difference - the Kosovar kids laugh a lot, and Liz says that doesn't happen a whole lot. Also let them know that although this is not a traditional mission trip (no bible passing, etc.) we are spreading Christ's message through our actions. I sincerely believe the best way to spread the Word is to share the spirit and they will seek the Word versus spreading the word and hoping the spirit will follow. Our actions and our presence are noticed by the whole town and they appreciate the fact that someone outside of here cares about them.

So many stories from here are so sad, it is somewhat amazing they are so happy. Many of the people I have seen have stress-related problems. From the kids to the adults I see so many health problems from - in part - stress. It is sad, but you see they have some hope when we show we care.

There were some children in the Slovene village so cute you would have put them in your luggage! If I come back here I want to expand the medical stuff to help the adult as well. I can't do much but see them, suggest lifestyle changes, and give out some OTC medications. But it helps...

I can't help from feeling a sadness - impending doom - because I wonder if the UN or anyone can resolve the problems they are having here. I have little hope the root problems will be fixed and if not it is inevitable more fighting will occur.

I know I have not touched on most of the happenings so I apologize - I will do better once we get home. We are all having fun, learning much, and making a difference - at least somewhat. We sure didn't learn near enough Albanian, but it just makes the trip more of an adventure!

The Tale of Two Worlds

2005-07-29T15:24:00.000-06:00

More than five years after the fighting ended here in Kosovo there are still thousands of families without a real home. While many of these people have been absorbed into the households of extended relatives and friends, some have no options and end up living in displacement camps.

Slovene Village, on the outskirts of Gjakove, is one of those camps. Built by the Slovenian government immediately after the war Slovene Village was intended to be temporary housing. Five years later it remains the permanent home for hundreds of men, women and children. Liz says the children of Slovene are some of the worst off financially of the thousands she assists throughout the Gjakove area.

Keith and I visited this same camp in 2002. Residents live in small, white rectangular metal buildings that resemble the trailer portion of an American semi-trailer truck. They are grouped by fours (three residences and a shared kitchen connected together in the shape of the letter C).

The conditions in 2002 were terrible by all accounts. I was shocked by what I saw when we first rolled into the compound this morning. The conditions now are 100% worse.

Today we did what we could to make life a little better for Slovene; even if was just for a few hours.

Our entire group plus a number of Liz’s volunteers arrived at the camp around 9:30am.
We immediately got to work. Pete and Kristi Korpi set up their makeshift “Eye Town” in one of the residences. Mike Hartman set up his outdoor health clinic nearby. Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti and Neva Baker led art and drawing classes in one of the two rooms of Slovene’s decrepit community building. Ric and Cynthia Smith and Lori Carroll directed singing classes in the room next door. Outside several of our youth participants and adults played wiffle ball, Frisbee, and games of elbow tag with dozens of camp children.

Despite the blazing sun, oppressive heat (at least 90 degrees) and language barriers everyone really seemed to enjoy the entire experience. I continue to be amazed at how well out youths adapt to new and different situations. If I didn’t already know I was in Kosovo, the laughter and screams of joy emanating from the playground area could have easily been the same sounds I hear as I pass a Muscatine school during recess. Music and laughter are universal, no matter what language.

Making Do with What We Have

Many of the Muscatine participants are already getting a small taste of what it’s like to live like a refugee. My house woke up without any hot water this morning. Hot water is somewhat of a cherished commodity in Gjakove but all of the adult houses have water heaters. Thus, we had been hopeful that we would have a hot shower today. Alas, I shouldn’t have been so hopeful.

We managed to figure out the hot water heater over lunch but by the end of the evening the entire city of Gjakove had lost water service. The reason is unclear but I do know the prospects for ANY shower tomorrow morning are not promising.

Sitting around the breakfast table (snacking on chocolate, chips, diet coke and cookies) we bemoaned another day without a shower. But the situation only reinforces that we take so many things for granted in America.

The Muscatine residents in my Kosovo house may have to live without a shower for another day. The residents in Slovene Village have been living without a real home in which to take a shower for more than five years.

Somehow a hot shower tomorrow morning doesn’t seem so important now.

Slovene Village Photos - July 28

2005-07-29T15:22:00.000-06:00

First Impressions

2005-07-29T15:21:00.000-06:00

Author's note...There are so many wonderful things happening here that my fingers can't type fast enough. Please bear with me as I try to post as much material as possible. In the coming days I am hopeful that other members of our group will find time to give me comments that I can add to the blog. So keep checking back for new and updated material.

Here are a few "first impression" comments that I gathered from people riding in my van between the airport and Gjakove. Please note that the fields surrounding the airport (and many along the road to Gjakove) are planted with corn. And unlike most farms in the US, there are no cattle fences. Hence, our caravan had to stop a few times on the way to Gjakove to let herds of cows cross the road.

"I noticed the smell right away. The airport was small but it was still an airport. The countryside doesn't look much different from that in America-except for the cows on the road." (Mike Hartman)

"Pretty hot but pretty neat. I think there are a lot of cows." (Maddie Hartman)

"It is a lot nicer than I expected." (Kristi Korpi)

"I love the feel of it. I like the terrain. It feels like being at home. They are cornfields and Queen Anne's Lace." (Janet Barry)

"It's neat. I was amazed at the number of people at the airport. There are a lot of new buildings next to old ones. It's amazing to see people farming by hand along the road near brand new signs along the road advertising new doors." (Dan Gray)

"So many things have changed since my first visit. The signs of progress and growth are everywhere. The airport has been modernized. There is a tremendous amount of new building happening all along the road between the airport and Gjakove. Last time I was here the signs of war were far more obvious. Entire villages along this same road were still in ruins and the ditches were filled with garbage and abandoned or destroyed cars. There is still garbage in the ditches but the number of abandoned cars and shattered houses are few and far between now. Perhaps the most noticeable difference for me was the number of trees. My last visit was during the month of November. There were no leaves on the trees then so I was shocked by the number of trees. The countryside is far more beautiful than I remember. I think the summer vegetation has a lot to do with this observation. Gjakove itself has also changed. There are a few buildings that I recognize but far more that I don't. The Hotel Gjakove where Keith and I stayed looks pretty much the same. The dorm that served as what was known locally as the "Konvict" displacement camp still stands. The building is now abandoned but evidence of the fire that destroyed the third floor of camp before our arrival in 2002 is still obvious. Strangely, however, a brand new German financed high-end apartment/condominium complex is being built just a block away from the old Konvict camp. Overall, it feels like life is moving forward here. Perhaps it is the summer sun, but it also feels much more like a thriving community than a war-shattered town." (Kristin McHugh-Johnston)

A Few Photos

2005-07-29T15:20:00.000-06:00

Here are a few photos from recent days.

Keith helps the MayDay bus driver in London load luggage.

MayDay bus driver finishes loading luggage in London.

Perparim, one of the Shropshire Music Foundation participants who visited Muscatine in 2004, welcomes Muscatine residents to the Pristina airport on July 27, 2005.

Pondering how to fix the Shropshire Music Foundation van that broke down on the road between the airport and Gjakove.

A view of Slovene Village near Gjakove on July 28, 2005.

Joe Porter attempts to throw the perfect pitch while playing a game of ball with the children of Slovene Village on July 28, 2005.

Additional Facts About Gjakove and Kosovo

2005-07-29T15:16:00.000-06:00

Additional Information about Gjakove
(Source: travelkosova.com)

Gjakove, located in Western Kosovo near the Albanian border, is 521 square kilometers including the main city and 84 surrounding villages. It is situated 360 meters above sea level. It is difficult to determine the actual population but UNMIK currently estimates 150,000 people live in the municipality (90,000 in the town and 60,000 in the surrounding villages.)

The old town was built around the Hadumi Mosque (built in the 15th Century) and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old town is considered the one of the largest bazaars in Europe. Approximately 70% are Muslim while 30% are Catholic. Gjakove boasts a public librabry, theatre, two professional choirs and numerous more folk bands, and a local radio station (Radio Gjakove).

Additional Facts about Kosovo
(Source: An April 2005 UNMIK report)

Population:
Approximately 1.9 million

Economy:
2003 GDP was approximately 1.78 billion Euro, or 960 Euro per capita (1 euro = approximately $1.25). Unemployment is estimated between 50 and 60 percent.

Government:
UNMIK remains the provisional authority but a Multiethnic provisional self government has been in place since June 2002. It is based on the May 2001 Constitutional Framework. In October 2004 a 120-member multiethnic Assembly was elected. Kosovo also has 30 municipalities with 30 elected municipal assemblies.

Police:
The international KFOR-force has been training a local police force known as the Kosovo Police Service (KPS). There are currently 6,282 KPS officers—84% male; 16% female; 84.5% ethnic-Albanian; 9.4% ethnic Serb; 6.1% other ethnic groups.

Judiciary:
398 local judges and prosecutors and 24 international judges and prosecutors

Education:
420,000 children attending 1200 schools
Nearly 15,000 university students

Health:
6 regional hospitals (including one in Gjakove). Total hospital beds in all of Kosovo equals 5,308. The hospitals are supported by "health houses" in the 30 municipalities. Family clinics serve Kosovo’s smaller villages.

Kosovo Status

2005-07-29T15:13:00.000-06:00

I think it is important to provide some background and context for those of you reading this blog that are unfamiliar with the political situation in Kosovo.

Kosovo is a province in the vast country that was once known as Yugoslavia. Today it is still technically part of the country now known as Serbia and Montenegro (also two regions of the former Yugoslavia). But since 1999, Kosovo has been administered by the United Nations (UNMIK…The United Nations Interim Administration Mission in Kosovo). The NATO-led peacekeeping force is known as KFOR.

In the late 1990’s, Yugoslav and Serbian President Slobadan Milosevic waged what many describe as an ethnic cleansing campaign to rid Kosovo of its ethnic Albanian majority. The campaign ended in 1999 after NATO, with assistance from the United States, waged a 78-day bombing campaign to drive Serb military forces from Kosovo.

In the end thousands of people died and at the height of the bombing campaign more than one-million people fled Kosovo to neighboring Macedonia and Albania. Milosevic is currently on trial at The Hague in the Netherlands for war crimes allegedly committed in Kosovo and Bosnia.
Since the end of the war, Kosovo’s ethnic Albanian majority have sought complete independence from Serbia. Serbia, however, views Kosovo as sacred ground and has rejected calls for an independent Kosovo. And although most of Kosovo’s Serb population fled from the region in 1999, ethnic tensions remain high.

Later this year, a special United Nations appointed investigator is due to issue a report on what the future may hold for Kosovo’s political status. In the meantime, Kosovo’s future remains in limbo. This means foreign investment and any real chance for economic growth in this region is severely limited.

Note to Readers About Photos

2005-07-28T12:06:00.000-06:00

Our internet connection here is REALLY, REALLY slow. It can take up to 20 minutes to get a post up. The connection speed means I am having problems attaching photos. I will continue trying to post but you may see more text than photos until I get home and can insert the photos where I want to place them.

Best,
Kristin

The Road to Gjakove

2005-07-28T11:38:00.000-06:00

It was cold and raining when we woke up this morning at the Gatwick Travelodge. Our goal was to get everyone to the airport by 9:20am but making the two mile trip from the hotel to the terminal was an adventure in itself.

Sometimes no matter how hard you plan trips take on a life of their own as they evolve. This was certainly the case today.

Last night Keith and I arranged to have several taxis meet us at the hotel by 9:00am. Taking several taxis was cheaper than taking the local shuttle bus (and every Euro counts on this trip). However, the taxis showed up in spurts and were not prepared to haul us AND our luggage. I went in the first car with Lori Carrol and Leigha Phillips. Once I had them settled in a central location in the terminal I headed back outside with a luggage cart and waited for the next car. Soon Mike Hartman arrived he assisted me outside while I directed everyone to the central meeting location.

I know some people in our group openly questioned our decision about the taxis but I still think it was the best solution given our options. If we had chosen to take the airport shuttle everyone would have had to get up at least an hour earlier. I am pretty confident that most (including myself) would choose the extra hour of sleep if given the choice. Especially since the ultimate cost was the same.

Just when I thought this was going fairly smoothly given the rain, the amount of luggage and the number of cars, British Air decided they wanted us to check in immediately…and not as a group.

At this point, all sense of order was thrown out the window. I gave everyone their tickets and they were off. I didn’t see some of the group members again until after I got to the gate (roughly ten minutes before boarding).

In the end checking-in the way we did was the right thing to do. The Porter family and I were the last ones to get to the ticket counter. By that time the flight was oversold and British Air tried to move the Porters to the next flight (which didn’t leave for another two days). I don’t know who got bumped off our flight but everyone from our group made it on the plane.

The flight itself was far more interesting than the last one. There were 45 children on the flight including our group. I want everyone to know that the Muscatine youth were on their BEST behavior. Unfortunately, the others were not. It was a loud, if not humorous, experience.

The chaos continued when we landed. Unlike the last time Keith and I were in Kosovo there is an actual airport terminal in Pristina. Before, the terminal was nothing more than an empty aircraft hanger staffed by KFOR peacekeepers. The new terminal, which bears all the signs of a quick United Nations build, has multiple passport control stations and a working baggage carousel. There were also several planes from other airlines parked on the tarmac.

We finally cleared the crush of passengers that had rushed from the plane to passport control and started the long process of collecting our luggage. Thankfully, there are luggage carts at the airport. They are the same carts that were here nearly three years ago. At the time, baggage claim consisted of a KFOR peacekeeper placing each bag in a straight line in the airport hanger. I remember thinking then, "They don’t have a real baggage claim but they do have luggage carts!"

I am always worried at least one piece of luggage won’t arrive when I head overseas on a trip. Sure enough, one bag didn’t make it from London. It is Kate Johnson’s main suitcase. I felt really, really badly for Kate (remember, the next British Air flight from London doesn’t arrive for another two days.) But Kate was really calm (I would have been in a complete state of panic). I helped her file a claim with the airline. We now have to call the airport on Friday and hope the bag arrives.

Gjakove or Bust…Literally!

Since Kate and I were delayed leaving the airport I missed the big arrival on the other side of customs. Liz, a number of the children who stayed in Muscatine last year, parents and a handful of drivers greeted the group with great fanfare that included a welcome poster similar to the one I held up for the Kosovo group when they arrive at O’Hare a year ago.

We eventually we made our way to the vehicles and once again started the process of loading the luggage. We are all quickly becoming packing experts! In the end it took four multi-passenger vans, Liz’s small Jeep and a small cargo truck to get us to Gjakove.

The last time Keith and I made the journey to Gjakove, the road itself was more like an obstacle course of potholes and craters, and it took over two hours to reach Liz’s house. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the trip is much shorter now (less than 90 minutes) and the road is no worse than sections of the Illinois toll road. We didn’t have to navigate a single pothole. If that’s not a sign of progress, I don’t know what is!

This is not to say we didn’t have problems making it to Gjakove. Halfway into the trip, the Shropshire Music Foundation’s (SMF) van broke down. Burim, one of Liz’s volunteers who also visited Muscatine last summer, was driving that van. Keith was riding in that van and he thinks the transmission may have given out. But any problem here has a quick, if not simple, solution. The driver of the van traveling in front of Burim’s vehicle simply tied a rope from his bumper to the bumper of SMF van. To help get the SMF vehicle moving again, the van directly behind it gave it a little push and we were on our way with Burim steering and braking as needed. You will be pleased to know that the rope only broke once...not far from the outskirts of Gjakove. A few extra knots in the rope got us all the way to Liz’s house.

I fear that Liz has a major repair bill ahead of her…one that she can’t really afford…so keep your fingers crossed that the SMF van can be fixed quickly and cheaply!

Tears Start to Flow

I cried when I found Liz back at the airport. I cried again once Liz, our group and members of the SMF group packed into Liz’s tiny living room. Liz was right, this really is a miracle. I’m sure I will say this many, many times again in the days ahead.

Housing Arrangements

Tonight we settled into the place we will call home for the next 11 days. All of the adults are living in three separate houses that we’ve rented for this trip. All of our youths are stay in pairs with host families. With the exception of one household, all of the host families had children who stayed in Muscatine last summer.

Our youth are so excited about being able to see their friends again. Language barriers aside, you could see the faces of both the Kosovar and Muscatine children light up when they recognized each other for the first time.

Every day our youth will rehearse and perform with members of the Kosovo Children’s Music Initiative, the Shropshire Music Foundation’s program here. The adults meanwhile will work on everything from English classes to arts-and-crafts and from basic construction to medical and eye check-ups for local youth.

Tomorrow we will begin our working schedule. Our goal is to spend Monday and Wednesdays in two surrounding villages and Tuesdays and Fridays working out of a Gjakove school and Tuesday and Thursday afternoon and evenings in the Slovene Village displacement camp; the same camp Keith and I visited in 2002.

Until next time...

(Personal note to readers...these entries probably seem long to you but they really are only a snapshot of our adventures.)

The Adventure Begins…Finally!

2005-07-27T16:20:00.000-06:00

Five years of dreaming, more than a year of planning, and countless fundraisers later; it has all come down to this.

32 passengers
42 checked bags (nearly all at the maximum weight of 70 pounds)
70-plus carry-on bags
1 Wesley United Methodist Church Bus
1 Large Passenger Van

The long journey to Kosovo started at 12:30pm on Monday, July 25th in the Wesley United Methodist Church parking lot. Getting to the meeting point was the easy part. Figuring out a way to get both passengers AND luggage into the two vehicles taking us to Chicago was much, much harder. Our large, overstuffed suitcases quickly filled the back of the Wesley bus and the van’s luggage hauling capacity was pretty limited.

So we resorted to drastic measures.

We packed the back two rows of the bus with youth participants and one adult (Kristi Korpi). Then we packed the aisle between them full of bags (one stacked on top of another). We did the same thing after getting four more people situated into the third row of the bus. Small suitcases and carry-on bags ended up in the storage bins above our heads, on the floor, or in my case on my lap. The scene reminded me of a plane ride I took in Russia once where people sat on their luggage in the aisle of the plane when the airline ran out of seats!

The situation on the van was similar. Youth in the back seat, followed by a mixture of adults and youths filling in the rest of the seats with luggage in between them in the aisle, under the seat and everywhere there was space. Keith Porter was sitting directly behind the front passenger seat with one of my suitcases sitting in front of him. I reminded him that I was in a similar situation the first time we visited Kosovo when the driver we hired to take us to neighboring Macedonia arrived at the border in a Yugo. In that case, I got the short end of the stick and was smashed into the backseat with most of our luggage.

Despite the craziness of finding a place for everyone and the luggage we left the parking lot at exactly 1:00pm (our departure goal). So far, so good.

The ride was hot but otherwise uneventful. We stopped at the McDonalds in Rock Falls for a quick bathroom break. I’m sure we looked more like a series of clowns getting out of a small car than a traveling caravan bound for Kosovo. I had my own laugh when the women of the group were warning those of us still standing in line for the restrooms that the first stall was out of toilet paper. I said, “I have Kleenex packs in my purse. This is a good first test of what awaits you in Kosovo.” The line moved a bit more quickly after that; aided by sharing Kleenex and toilet paper from other stalls.

Smooth Sailing

We arrived at O’Hare International Airport only five minutes past our pre-set time of 5:15pm. Again so far, so good.

Unloading the luggage and hauling all of it into the airport took some finesse. But since we arrived three-hours ahead of our departure time we didn’t have to wait in line at the ticket counter. I couldn’t believe it but everyone had a boarding pass and their checked luggage to the large security x-ray machines in terminal in less than 30-minutes. We are flying British Air to London and then taking a second British Air flight to Kosovo’s capital Pristina.

The entire group then made their way to the busy food café just outside of the main security checkpoint in the international terminal. Doreen Borde and I then went to the customs office to register our higher-end equipment (computers, radio equipment and cameras) just in case they question us upon return (more and more customs agents are demanding proof of prior purchase for high-end electronic equipment upon returning to the US). It is a pain to get the paperwork signed but it is far worse to get stopped coming back (like I did coming back from Uganda earlier this year).

The customs agent handling our paperwork asked me my profession and I told him, “I’m a radio journalist.” He asked where we were headed and I responded, “Kosovo.” He winced and then said, “Well at least it’s not vacation.”

“Actually,” I replied, “it is vacation.” He double winced and wished us luck.

After a quick bite to eat the entire group headed for the security screening checkpoint. I was more worried about this step in the process than anything else. But again to my amazement everyone made it through with no problems. I estimate it took less than 10 minutes to get all of us through screening. Whew!

Too Good To Be True

We waited about an hour in the gate area before boarding our plane. Things had gone SO smoothly up to this point that I was beginning to wonder when the other shoe would drop.

It dropped as soon as we buckled our seatbelts.

Seemingly out of nowhere a horrific thunderstorm with lighting and wind blew though. The wind was strong enough to sway the aircraft from side-to-side as if we were experiencing turbulence in the air. At one point it was raining so hard that I couldn’t see the plane parked at the next gate and the water cascaded down the side of the plane like a waterfall. In the end the storm delayed our departure by about an hour.

The flight to London itself was uneventful and everyone was really, really good. At least one participant (Diana Baker) had never flown before but she certainly didn’t appear to be scared.

Once we arrived in London we had to clear passport control before claiming our luggage. Lady luck was with us. At passport control they opened a special lane for us since we are traveling as a large group. It helped that we are all wearing our Kosovo Project t-shirts (designed by participant Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti). Lady luck stayed with us as we headed to baggage claim. Every single bag arrived.

Long before the London bombing incidents we chartered a private bus to take us from London’s Heathrow Airport to our hotel near London’s Gatwick airport. Gatwick is more of a European hub and that’s where our flight to Pristina originates. We need to spend the night in London because British Air only flies three days a week to Pristina (Monday, Wednesday, and Friday).

The charter bus from MayDay Travel (I’m not kidding!) was exactly was waiting for us as we exited the airport. It wasn’t until we lined all of our luggage up to be loaded into the cargo hold of the bus that I realized just how much stuff we really are hauling (are you sensing a theme here?).

After loading about a dozen bags the bus driver turned to Keith and said, “Americans always have too much luggage.”

I’m not sure we could have stuffed another suitcase in the cargo hold. It was full when the last suitcase was loaded. But our driver was friendly and despite the dubious name of the company we made it to the Gatwick Travelodge in about an hour.

Killing Time in the Bar

We arrived at the hotel just after 1:00pm. None of our rooms were ready since check-in time is 3:00pm so we waited in a lounge area that doubles as the hotel’s bar at night. Some adults slept while others searched for restaurants nearby. The youth played cards and hand-held video games. Keith and I made the arrangements for a series of taxis to pick us up and take us to the airport tomorrow morning.

Eventually we made it to our rooms. But even this wasn’t an easy task. All of our rooms are on the third floor but the two lifts (that’s British for elevator) were not working properly and then finally quit working entirely. This meant we had to haul many of our heavy bags up three full flights of stairs. Luckily, Jon and Mike Hartman with the help of a Travelodge employee brought the remaining bags up the stairs. I am forever grateful since my bags were among the last to make it upstairs! I hope the elevators are working in the morning or it could be a long, long trip down those three flights of stairs.

As for the rooms….what can I say? The rooms are not 4-star. They are what I expect a room to be like at a Travelodge. I am rooming with Lori Carroll. I told Lori she could have the one bed in the room. I took the large sofa. Believe me; I have slept in worse places. Actually, all of our rooms have a similar set-up; one or two beds and a sofa.

It is just after 8:30pm as I finish writing this note and nearly everyone is sleeping (Lori included). I’m sure most of us will wake up early tomorrow morning but at least we will have had a good rest before our journey continues to Gjakove.

Until next time….

The Adventure Begins Tomorrow

2005-07-22T21:43:00.000-06:00

I have just finished packing the three suitcases I am bringing with me to Kosovo. My clothing only takes up a portion of one bag. The rest of the space is filled with gifts, English books, food and snacks, and my radio equipment.

As I stare at my stuffed bags I find it hard to believe that in less than 24 hours I will be on my way Gjakove. I can still clearly remember the first thing Liz Shropshire said to Keith and I as we stood on the doorstep of her rented house in Gjakove.

“I can’t believe you’re actually here,” she said.

In retrospect, I can’t believe we found her in the first place. I had spent days researching music-based therapy programs in the Balkans when by chance I found a link to Liz’s Web site. At the time, the site hadn’t been updated in a year and I was fearful Liz had already left Kosovo (many aid agencies reduced their presence or left Kosovo entirely three years after the conflict ended).

Hoping against all hope, I sent an e-mail to Liz’s “contact” address on her Web site. To my surprise she answered it within a few days but she was somewhat skeptical that Keith and I were serious about visiting her in Gjakove. Hence her comment when she first met us on that chilly, damp day in November, 2002.

“Who could have ever imagined this?” I said in an e-mail to Liz last week. “Hey--I agree--this is a total miracle,” she replied.

A miracle indeed….made possible by Liz, our friends in Gjakove, my 31 fellow trip participants, and the hundreds of Muscatine residents who have so generously donated to the Muscatine Kosovo Project fund.

Kosovo Music Group Anxiously Awaits Muscatine Visitors

2005-07-22T20:38:00.000-06:00

Since these members of the Kosovo Children's Music Initiative (KCMI) visited Muscatine in 2004 they have stayed in touch with members of the Muscatine Children’s and Youth Choirs. As this picture clearly shows they can't wait for our group to arrive in Gjakove. The cards they are holding say, "WE MISS YOU."

Group Anticipation Mounts

2005-07-20T06:01:00.000-06:00

The entire group is excited and making last minute preparations for our big adventure. Here some of the Muscatine participants pause for a quick pre-trip photo. Below are Muscatine particpant answers to the following question: "What are you looking forward to?"

"I'm looking forward to meeting new people and having new experiences." (Halie Gray)

"I am looking forward to making this a meaningful experience for the children." (Dan Gray)

"I hope to make new friends and share my love of music with them." (Taylor Borde)

"I am excited about traveling to a new place, making many friends and especially sharing this experience with my grandson." (Janet Barry)

"I am looking forward to meeting new friends, reuniting with old ones and just having fun." (Madeline Hartman)

"I really want to meet new friends and see our old friends." (Leigha Phillips)

"I am looking forward to meeting all the Kosovars since I could not participate last summer." (Michaella Calzaretta)

"I am looking forward to a close knit community and forming lasting relationships. I plan to cry when I come home." (Emma Smith)

"I am most looking forward to seeking my friends in Gjakove." (Hanna Porter)

"I am looking forward to being able to provide a service for people who may not have the means or opportunity to obtain it otherwise." (Pete Korpi)

"I am looking forward to seeing again the children we met last summer and meeting many more. I am eager to join the work that Liz Shropshire has begun to bring healing and opportunity to the children of war in Kosovo." (Cynthia Smith)

"I am looking forward to being immersed in and meeting people of a different culture. I am also looking forward to helping in any way I can to show them that I care." (Karen Morgan)

"I'm looking forward to seeing the folks we met last summer again, and especially excited about seeing a whole different part of the world!" (Lori Carroll)

"I look forward to reaching out and sharing all that we have to offer, see the kids from last year, making new friendships, performing at the Bondsteel camp, and bringing home wonderful memories our of adventure." (Doreen Borde)

"I'm looking forward to the reunion with the kids we "adopted" last summer and to making music together on their turf!" (Ric Smith)

"I am looking forward to seeing friends from last summer and meeting new people too. I think we will have fun and I hope we change people’s lives." (Diana Baker)

"I look forward to seeing a part of Europe I have never seen, meeting new people and learning their culture, and maybe a little of their language. I hope that we are able to make a positive impact on their community." (Neva Baker)

"I am looking foward to seeing how Gjakove and Kosovo have changed since my last visit. I am also looking forward to seeing all of the teens who visited Muscatine in 2004 and all of the people I first met in 2002." (Kristin McHugh-Johnston)

"I wish to see for myself the conditions in the camp for displaced persons. I want to provide new learning experiences for young people who have not had many opportunities." (Anne Olson)

Project Inspiration - Stanley Foundation Radio Programs

2005-07-17T10:23:00.000-06:00

As my brief biography mentions I first visited Kosovo in 2002 while working on the radio documentary, "Children of War: Fighting, Dying, Surviving." Material I gathered with fellow producer Keith Porter appeared in the Children of War documentary (released in March 2003). We also produced a separate half-hour mini-documentary on Liz Shropshire for the Stanley Foundation's former weekly radio program, Common Ground.

Links to the radio material are below.
"Children of War: Fighting, Dying, Surviving" http://www.warchildren.org/index.html
Common Ground Radio: "Kosovo's Pied Piper: The Liz Shropshire Story"http://commongroundradio.org/shows/02/0252.shtml#1

Keith and I with some of the children in Slovene Village near Gjakove, November 2002.

Muscatine Journal Features Kosovo Trip

2005-07-17T09:59:00.000-06:00

The Muscatine Journal published two articles featuring our trip in its July 16th edition. Many thanks to Cynthia Beaudette and Jeff Tecklenburg for their continued support. You can find the articles via:
http://muscatinejournal.com/articles/2005/07/17/news/doc42d86cb8666a1401610559.txt
http://muscatinejournal.com/articles/2005/07/17/news/doc42d86d2fbcd23926958759.txt

Project Background

2005-07-15T21:32:00.000-06:00

The Project
In 2003 the Muscatine Children’s and Youth Choirs initiated an exchange program between the Muscatine Children’s and Youth Choirs and youth in Kosovo. The Kosovar youth are participants in the Kosovo Children’s Music Initiative (KCMI),which is sponsored by the Shropshire Music Foundation. These young people have been caught in the crossfire, in many cases literally, during the years of war that have ravaged their homeland.

Phase One
The first stage was completed this past summer (2004) as thirteen young Kosovar musicians spent two weeks in Muscatine living, rehearsing, and performing with the Muscatine Children’s and Youth Choirs.

It was a miraculous time as the young people overcame enormous differences of language and culture to form close and life-long friendships, and to give their very best blended musical gift to extraordinarily responsive audiences in Muscatine, Nauvoo, Illinois,Dubuque, and Des Moines.

Phase Two
On July 25, 2005, a number of our young people with adult advisors will travel to Kosovo for a reciprocal experience. We will operate out of a school and offer classes in English, chorus, folk music, and art to KCMI participants. Special medical and eye clinics and construction projects are also planned. We will rehearse with the Shropshire Foundation’s group and perform in Gjakovë and in other locations in Kosovo.